Consulting

DARK is the title of British artist Frances Aviva Blane’s new show at de Queeste Art gallery in Belgium although the work, at first sight, seems anything but sombre. Instead of blacks and greys Blane has updated her palette to include oranges, yellows and blues. But these paintings are not joyful or light in any way, and the timing of the show’s opening is important.

Dark, painting on canvas by Frances Aviva Blane

The date of the private view is November 11 which is the centenary of Armistice Day of the First World War and the location close to Ypres, where hundreds of thousands perished. Blane acknowledges this, though she feels any painterly response from her would be inadequate and inappropriate. However the new brighter colours she is using  have much to do with violence and shock.

“I wanted to make paintings whose mood alter on inspection. At first glance the bright colours yield joy, but on scrutiny the application of paint and calligraphic marks create unease. It’s interesting to take a beautiful colour like pink  or yellow and make it convey something not so beautiful.”

This is undoubtedly true of “dark”, a harsh yellow bombshell of a painting with churned up paint and a gouged surface. Despite an aspect of cadmium yellows and hot colours it looks sickly and rough, appearing as an afterglow of burnt out light or fire.

9/4, painting on canvas by Frances Aviva Blane

Similarly in the orange painting 9/4 the beauty of shining orange is sullied by a mass of scribble and paint drips. It is reminiscent of hospital equipment reading “terminal”. 

No Title, painting on canvas by Frances Aviva Blane

I am struck by the economy in this piece and remember Blane saying she wished to be more eloquent and use less paint. She wanted to leave “the tyranny of mess”. Largely her desire is successful and there is an agitation in the brush strokes that is never tempered, especially in painting titled No Title.

The longer I look at No Title the more I understand what she is trying to do. The few black marks on the surface look like the bare bones of  Dark which is painterly and thickly encrusted. I very much like the immediacy and fluency – it feels like a bird in flight and it’s refreshing to see so much untouched linen.

I ask Blane if it was hard to make. She admits candidly, “It wasn’t hard to make but it was very hard to leave it in this state.   I worry when something looks elegant that I’m doing interior design.”

Hospital Frances Avivia BlaneHospital, painting on canvas by Frances Aviva Blane

Dirk and Theun Vonckx have curated an exhibition which encompass many aspects of Blane’s painting. It is striking that she switches from minimalism to heavily painted  surfaces which are almost figurative. When I asked her why she has different ways of working she says she’s approaching a problem in different ways, “I don’t always want to speak in one key.”

In one room there are only monochromatic paintings and  for me this is the most powerful. Story, my favourite, is the bleakest landscape possible, a vista of black, with fine lines running nowhere, scrubbed out paint and a foiled perspective. It is reminiscent of an ancient black and white photograph left outside to disintegrate.

by Jane Dale

Dark, an exhibition of paintings and drawings by Frances Aviva Blane is at De Queeste Art Gallery Abele/Watou Belgium from November 11 to December 12, 2018.

Blane’s work can also be seen at the John Moores Painting Prize 2018 at The Walker Art Gallery Liverpool until 18 November 201

THE SS18 collection from Clergerie is here and includes everything from sliders and lace-up sandals to wedges and trainers.  Look no further than the Parisian brand when shopping for your summer shoe wardrobe; Clergerie has it all.

Here is a selection of some of our favourites from the collection:

 

Lendy – Mule in water-repellent lambskin.

Walter – Mule in Handwoven raffia on a rubber sole

 

Wallis – Mule in denim and rubber

 

Zoots – open-toe ankle boot in stretch denim

Youla – Mule in polished calfskin and nickel studs

Figlouc  – studded sandal with removable ankle strapSalvy – Sneaker in raffia fabric, lycra and calfskin.

Prim –  Platform sandal in calfskin.

Asier – Mule in laser-cut patent calfskin.

by Daisy Sewell

To see the collection in full and shop the above selection, click here.

THE Grand Tour has returned for its third edition, exploring the museums and galleries of Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire. A series of exhibitions are being held at four venues, all encapsulating a common theme as the celebrate the artistic process and the impact of industrial creation. The four major events are shows by Linder at Nottingham Contemporary and Chatsworth, a range of lithophones by Clare Twomey at The Harley Gallery, and a show at Derby Museums exploring The Art of Industry.

The House of Fame convened by Linder, Nottingham Contemporary, photography by Sam KirbyThe House of Fame convened by Linder, Nottingham Contemporary. Photograph: Sam Kirby

At Nottingham Contemporary is The House of Fame by Linder which, at its core, is an exploration of the artist’s lifetime of work and artistry, embodying more than 40 years of photomontage, graphics, costume and performance works, whilst exploring Linder’s artistic influences. The exhibition displays 200 works of varying formats and artists selected by Linder.

Her Grace Land by Linder, Chatsworth, courtesy of Chatsworth House TrustHer Grace Land by Linder, Chatsworth, courtesy of Chatsworth House Trust.

Her Grace Land at Chatsworth is an exhibition created by Linder during her time as an artist in residence at Chatsworth. The stately home provided her with a great pool of inspiration in its history and visual and sensual landscape, in which the artist immersed herself.

 ‘Half in Shadow: Half in Light’ by Clare Twomey (location photography by Jeff Gilbert) at The Harley Gallery, Welbeck, photography by Sam KirbyHalf in Shadow: Half in Light by Clare Twomey (location photography by Jeff Gilbert) at
The Harley Gallery, Welbeck. Photograph: Sam Kirby.

Half in Shadow: Half in Light at The Harley Gallery, British artist Clare Twomey uses lithophanes to explore everyday life and work throughout the history of Welbeck Estate, representing also the contemporary life on the grounds.

Derby Museums ‘The Art of Industry’ exhibition, photography Sam KirbyDerby Museum’s The Art of Industry exhibition. Photograph: Sam Kirby

The Art of Industry at Derby Museum and Art Gallery is an exhibition in which we see Joseph Wright pay tribute to the industrial past and manufacturing environment of the region, using both historic artefacts and the interpretation of contemporary artists.

In conjunction with these milestone shows, there is a programme of eight exhibitions and events being held to celebrate the tradition of The Grand Tour. The peripheral programme includes an exhibition entitled Lace Unveiled at Nottingham City Museums and Galleries; ‘The Penny Podcasts’ produced by Syson Gallery which explores the idea of free access to education; Scaling the Sublime: Art at the Limits of Landscape at Djanogly Gardens; as well as workshops, installations and culinary experiences.

by Daisy Sewell 

The Grand Tour exhibitions are now open at Nottingham Contemporary, Chatsworth, The Harley Gallery and Derby Museums.

The House of Fame is open until June 24, 2018.

Her Grace Land is open until October 21, 2018.

Half in Shadow: Half in Light is open until June 30, 2018.

The Art of Industry is open until June 17, 2018.

 

A NEW exhibition, Van Gogh & Japan, has been opened at the Von Gogh Museum in Amsterdam by His Majesty King Willem-Alexander. The exhibition, compiled of around 60 works by Van Gogh and a variety of Japanese prints, displays the great esteem in which Van Gogh held the art and artists of Japan and, in turn, the way in which their work influenced and changed his own.

King Willem-Alexander opens Van Gogh Exhibition His Majesty King Willem-Alexander opens the exhibition in the presence of  the Minister of Education, Culture and Science Ingrid van Engelshoven, the Director of the Van Gogh Museum Axel Rüger, the Japanese Ambassador his Excellency Hiroshi Inomata and the Acting Mayor of Amsterdam Jozias van Aartsen.

To facilitate the exhibition, several pieces are on loan from museums and private collections from all over the world, including the historical appearance of Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear (1889, The Courtauld Gallery, London) which has not been in the Netherlands since 1930. Some of Van Gogh’s most revered pieces such as Self-Portrait, 1888 (Harvard Art Museums/Fogg Museum, Cambridge, MA), shall also be featured. This event is set to be the largest exhibition ever on the chosen theme.

 

King Willem-Alexander opens Van Gogh ExhibitionKing Willem-Alexander admires the painting The Arlésienne (Marie Ginoux) (1888, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York), together with director Axel Rüger and senior researcher Louis van Tilborgh of the Van Gogh Museum.

After opening the exhibition in the traditional way (cutting a ribbon with rosettes), King Willem-Alexander explored the exhibition and attended an informal reception.

by Daisy Sewell 

The Van Gogh & Japan exhibition is now open at the Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam and will run until June 24, 2018.

THE Galerie Karsten Greve has announced Leiko Ikemura as a nominee for the Prix Guerlain 2018. The artist, originally from Japan, has been represented by the gallery since 1993. The award, now the highest honour in France for contemporary drawing, was created in 2007 by Florence and Daniel Guerlain.

LEIKO IKEMURA @ PRIX GUERLAIN 2018Self by Leiko Ikemura (2008)  ©Studio Leiko Ikmeura, Courtesy Galerie Karsten Greve Köln, Paris, St. Moritz

LEIKO IKEMURA @ PRIX GUERLAIN 2018

Dancing Trees 15 by Leiko Ikemura (2017) ©Studio Leiko Ikmeura, Courtesy Galerie Karsten Greve Köln, Paris, St. Moritz

LEIKO IKEMURA @ PRIX GUERLAIN 2018

Dancing Trees 44 by Leiko Ikemura (2017) ©Studio Leiko Ikmeura, Courtesy Galerie Karsten Greve Köln, Paris, St. Moritz

LEIKO IKEMURA @ PRIX GUERLAIN 2018Dancing Trees 6 by Leiko Ikemura (2017) ©Studio Leiko Ikmeura, Courtesy Galerie Karsten Greve Köln, Paris, St. Moritz

LEIKO IKEMURA @ PRIX GUERLAIN 2018

Monte Madre by Leiko Ikemura (2016) ©Studio Leiko Ikmeura, Courtesy Galerie Karsten Greve Köln, Paris, St. Moritz

 

Leiko Ikemura’s work, comprising of more than 30 pastel and watercolour pieces, shall be displayed in an exhibition organised by the Guerlain Foundation.  This exhibition shall assemble the work of the two other nominees for the award, during during the Salon du Dessin held at Palais Brongiart.

by Daisy Sewell  

The winning artist will be announced on Thursday, March 22, as part of the Salon.

The Salon du Dessin opens on March 21 and  is on until March 26, 2018 at Palais Brongniart.

LUXURY accessories brand, Rae Feather, has been named as a Walpole 2018 Brand of Tomorrow, the organisation’s flagship development programme. Through this programme Walpole, the body for the British luxury industry, selects 12 innovative British luxury brands to be part of a year-long programme of workshops and mentoring, helping to develop their business skills and foster their growth. This is achieved through a pairing system, wherein each brand is partnered with an experienced UK luxury executive from whom they receive a year of personal mentoring and one-to-one coaching.

The transference of skills and the growth of mutually beneficial relationships within the luxury industry are the core aims of the Brands of Tomorrow scheme. Its objectives are not limited to Britain and the luxury sector either, but instead are aimed at helping the wider business economy to prosper.

Rae Feather, Walpole, Brands of Tomorrow, fashion, award, business, luxury, British, 2018Rae Feather

Rae Feather’s brand ethos is grounded in the idea of bringing joy to the simply things in life. They are well-known around the world for their woven baskets and clutches, for which they offer the addition of hand painted, monogrammed initials.

The Brands of Tomorrow programme is now in its 11th year, with some of its graduates including Orlebar Brown, Charlotte Olympia, Nyetimber, Bremont and Emilia Wickstead, while past mentors include senior executives from Selfridges, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars, Harrods and Oliver Sweeney.

by Daisy Sewell

DEEP in the Humberside Peatlands, Hatfield Moor and the National Nature Reserve in South Yorkshire, a revolutionary development is opening in the world of eco-friendly holidays.  The Tyram Lakes Hotel, Spa and Resort which is not only a hotel and spa, but will be developed to include 325 eco-lodges within approximately 65 acres of lakes and 100 acres of natural woodlands.

Employing state-of-the-art ecological and eco-friendly technology, the resort aims to provide a peaceful escape in the most natural of habitats, with some of the lodges being floating structures on the lakes. The hotel itself is designed by Den Architecture in association with Baca Architects, who are experts in eco-friendly and amphibious developments.

As well as this world-renowned fashion brand, Armani, is now playing a role in the design of a selection of exclusive lodges within the resort, making The Tyram Lake Resort and Spa the first Armani development within the UK.

hotel, eco-friendly, ecological, Armani, Baca Architects, Den Architecture, Hoseasons, Tyram Lakes, Yorkshire Wildlife Park, Natural England
The Tyram Lakes Hotel, Spa and Resort

The managing director of Rothglen, the company behind the project, Daulton Byfield, says, “The Tyram Lakes Hotel, Spa&Resort will be the first of its type in the UK. We are planning to invest £25m to create a first class eco holiday village where visitors can relax amongst nature and enjoy a quiet break from hectic modern life.”

by Daisy Sewell

The Tyram Lakes Hotel, Spa and Resort, Bawtry Road, Hatfield Woodhouse, Doncaster, South Yorkshire, DN7 6DR
Opening times:  Mon to Fri, 09.30 – 17.30

Email:  info@tyram.co.uk
Tel:  +44(0)1302 247940

FOLLOWING the success of international residency programme Art for the Environment (AER), UAL and Bow Arts are partnering to present a nine-week AER residency this January. Curated by Camilla Palestra, the exhibition features the work of six artists who explore the human impact on the natural world through a range of mediums including film, sound and interactive installation.

The work of Matt Parker

Artists Matt Parker, Nana Maiolini and Magz Hall employ the medium of sound. In a soundscape of the protected landscape at Joya: arte + ecología in Spain, Parker highlights how phones searching for signal disrupt its natural sound.  Maiolini records the crackle of once lush flowers, roots and leaves that have been dried by desertification. Hall’s work creates a space for visitors to record their dreams by the themes of earth, air, fire and water.

Work by Nana Maiolini

Noemi Niederhauser and Matteo Valerio explore the relationship between commercial processes and manufacturing. Niederhauser investigates our use and discard of material and Valerio demonstrates tensions between artisan practice and the pace of modern production.

The sixth artist, Annabel Duggleby, explores the commodification of nature by following the historical narratives of Victorian plant-hunters and seed patenting.

The work of Annabel Duggleby

An accompanying event programme features hands-on recycling workshops, discussions and interactive recording sessions.

Established by Professor Lucy Orta, UAL Chair of Art and the Environment in 2015, the AER programme invites artists to explore subjects that relate human society to the environment, including sustainability, biodiversity, social economy and human rights.

by Rosie Byers

The Bow Arts exhibition is at the Nunnery Gallery, Bow Arts, 181 Bow Road, London E3 2SJ

A private view will take place on January 25 from 6pm-9pm, and the exhibition will be open to the public from January 26 until March 18, 2018.

Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 10am until 5pm, and admission is free.

Bow Arts Trust was established in 1995 as an educational arts charity. The organisation currently supports over 500 artists with affordable workspaces, and run the Nunnery Gallery event and exhibition space.

The show has been put together with the support of University of the Arts London, the Centre for Sustainable Fashion and Arts Council England.

PASTELS in Pieces is a new show at the J Paul Getty Museum at the Getty Center, Los Angeles, which provides the remarkable opportunity to explore a fundamental shift in the way 18th century pastel paintings were created.

During the 18th century, a revolution in the way pastel painters operated was taking place. Competition with oil painters led pastel artists to begin the joining together of several sheets of paper, in order to create a large expanse on which grander pieces could be imposed.

The director of the J. Paul Getty Museum, Timothy Potts says, “The Museum owns the largest pastel made in the eighteenth century, a portrait of the magistrate Gabriel Bernard de Rieux by Maurice-Quentin de la Tour. One of the highlights of our collection, it stands over six feet tall and is pieced together from 12 sheets of paper … It forms the centerpiece of the exhibition that will explain how these splendid objects were made.”

Gabriel Bernard de Rieux by Maurice Quentin de la Tour at the J. Paul Getty Museum Portrait of Gabriel Bernard de Rieux, 1739-1741, Maurice-Quentin de La Tour
(French, 1704 – 1788). Pastel and gouache on paper mounted on canvas.
200.7 × 149.9 cm (79 × 59 in.). The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles

The new technique also provided opportunity for further artistic development, such as the ability to work on different elements of the artwork separately, creating often fascinating miniature creations within the artworks themselves; whilst layering sheets offered pastel artists a more forgiving forum for creation.

by Daisy Sewell

Pastels in Pieces opens on January 16, 2018 and is on until July 29, 2018 at the J. Paul Getty Museum at the Getty Center, Los Angeles

THE Waste Land by TS Eliot emerged out of the ashes of the First World War, signaling the beginning of a new era of literature, art and music. One of the most significant poems of the last century, The Waste Land persistently influences society and culture and has now resulted in an exhibition in which the exploration of the relationship between the poem and visual arts is displayed.

 

Journeys in The Waste Land, Turner Contemporary Exhibition
If Not, Not by RB Kitaj (1975-76). Image: Courtesy National Galleries of Scotland

 

Journeys with The Waste Land at Turner Contemporary in Margate shall consist of the work of over 60 artists and almost 100 objects. It will mark the conclusion of a three year project which envisioned the reconsidering of traditional curation methods.

A mélange of pieces is to be exhibited, including work by renowned 20th century artists, historical artifacts, contemporary works and new commissions.  Artworks range from that of Edward Hopper, whose painting Night Windows (1928) uncannily parallels with the tone of the poem, to work developed solely for the exhibition such as John Newling‘s sculpture Eliot’s Notebooks (2017).

 

Journeys with The Waste Land, Turner Contemporary ExhibitionMargate’s Shelter. Photograph: Thanet District Council, courtesy Turner Contemporary

 

Eliot had worked on The Waste Land while in Margate in 1921, nurturing an important moment in his career. The poem was published the following year

by Daisy Sewell

Journeys with The Wasteland opens on February 3, 2018 and is on until May 7, 2018 at the Turner Contemporary in Margate, UK

TATE Britain have commissioned the artist Alan Kane to create their Christmas light display, Home for Christmas. The cheering spectacle was switched on last week, decorating the exterior of the museum.

Alan Kane Tate Britain Home for Christmas Commission
Alan Kane’s Home for Christmas for Tate Britain

Switched on by prominent community figure, Jane Buttigieg, the exhibit on the Victorian façade of the building is part of the gallery’s community Christmas event. Tate’s traditional Christmas tree has been replaced by this light-hearted seasonal commission, featuring LED Santas, reindeer, snowmen and Christmas trees, similar to those decorating houses across Britain. The notion of combining the every-day with high-culture is a theme that frequently features in Kane’s work.

The commission is part of the greater festive period at Tate Britain, including craft activities, festive themed art talks, carol singing and torch-lit viewings of their esteemed Turner collection.

Director of Tate Britain, Alex Farquharson, says, “We’re excited to be giving Tate Britain a whole new face this Christmas … Alan’s ultra-festive response is sure to turn heads – of those both young and old. We look forward to unveiling other surprising festive artist commissions in the years to come.”

by Daisy Sewell

The display shall remain there until the January 6, 2018 and illuminated daily from 05:00am to 00:00am, at Tate Britain, Millbank, Westminster, London SW1P 4RG, UK.

 

A NEW exhibition is to be unveiled at the V&A Museum of Childhood which delves into the exploration of dreams, waking and conscious and what lies between the two. Dream On shall encompass several components including ceramic work by celebrated artist Christie Brown, installations from the museum’s projects with young people from St George’s Hospital Tooting and primary school children from Lauriston School Hackney.

Hakeem by Exuma Final, 2017. By pupils at Lauriston Primary School Hackney
Hakeem by Exuma Final, 2017.  Photograph: By pupils at Lauriston Primary School Hackney.

The exhibition centres around the relationships we form with objects and our possessions and the power we give them, whilst also suggesting that, like in our dreams when we sleep, they come alive when we are not looking.

Brown’s contribution Ludus Est evocatively incorporates dolls and toys from her own childhood memories, displaying a narrative in which two dolls explore the museum once it is closed.

Ludus Est - Caroline and Godfrey go to school, Ceramic 2017. Photos by Sylvain DeleuLudus Est – Caroline and Godfrey go to school, Ceramic 2017. Photography: Sylvain Deleu.

The exhibition features work from artists from a variety of disciplines. On display is the ceramic work of Brown who is also Emerita Professor of Ceramics at the University of Westminster in London. Also featured is the work of Katherine Tulloh, a painter and film maker from Hackney, whose work encapsulates ideas of memories within the present. The esteemed photography of Australian-native, Madeleine Waller, is also incorporated into the exhibition.

by Daisy Sewell

The exhibition is open from February 10, 2018 until January 20, 2019 at the V&A Museum of Childhood, Cambridge Heath Road, London, E2 9PA

FASHION Scout London have been selecting designers to feature in their showcase for the AW18 season, who will be revealed on their website in the New Year. Last month 40 designers were shortlisted from over 300 that registered to show.

The chosen brands then presented their collections at Wringler and Mangle in Spitalfields Market at the end of last month. Their designs were judged by Fashion Scout Founder Martyn Roberts and a panel made up of industry experts Hattie Crisell, Acting Fashion Editor at The Times, Ida Petersson, Womenswear Buying Director at Browns, Emma Firth, Online Fashion Editor at Hunger Magazine, Fabio Piras, MA Course Leader at Central St Martins MA and Kendall Robbins, Fashion Programme Manager at The British Council.

Kendall Robbins, Emma Firth and Martyn Roberts at the AW18 judging process.
Photograph courtesy: Rory James

Emma Firth and Fabio Piras examining AW18 collections. Photograph courtesy: Rory James

Winners of the Merit and One to Watch Awards will present with Fashion Scout London in February 2018 at London Fashion Week, where Fashion Scout is the UK’s largest independent showcase for both established and emerging designers. They will also be included in the Fashion Scout London Exhibition.

Globelle SS18 show. Photograph courtesy: Qavi Reyez, Rory James and Bethan Fielding

nellllyGlobelle SS18 show. Photograph courtesy: Qavi Reyez, Rory James and Bethan Fielding

Last month Fashion Scout also released a short film of Nelly Rose’s Globelle presentation at Fashion Scout SS18. Previously named a One To Watch designer, Nelly launched Globelle last season as an international platform focused on fostering the exchange of ideas and collaboration between artists across the world.

by Rosie Byers

BRITISH make-up artist Pat McGrath MBE received the Isabella Blow Award at the Fashion Awards 2017 this week. The award gives recognition to the most inspirational and creative in the fashion industry and this year it celebrated the extraordinary input and artistic innovation of the revered Pat McGrath.

Pat-McGrath-fashion awardPat McGrath. Photograph: Ben Hassett

Fashion and beauty were her childhood passions, and with no formal training, McGrath has become one of the most  influential make-up artists working today. Most notable are McGrath’s contributions to runway make-up looks shown on the catwalks of London, Paris, New York and Milan, along with ongoing editorial work for many fashion brands and publications, constantly changing and challenging the norm.

The award recognised McGrath’s exceptional achievement in the launching of her brand Path McGrath Labs. Described by British Vogue as “The most influential make-up artist in the world”, the award demonstrates the continual growth and progress McGrath brings to the fashion and beauty world.

by Daisy Sewell

THIS MONTH, award-winning Scotland based photographer Dougie Cunningham will release Photographing Scotland, a guidebook for visitors and photographers.

Cunningham’s clients include Aberdeen Asset Management, Red Bull and the Keswick Mountain Festival and he regularly contributes to publications such as The Great Outdoors Magazine.


View of the Old Man of Storr on the Trotternish peninsula of Skye. Photograph courtesy: Dougie Cunningham

The four-year-long project is the first comprehensive guidebook of the entire country compiled specifically for photographers. It contains descriptions and illustrations of 280 landscapes, coastlines, mountains, glens, cnocs and lochans, including both popularly documented and little-known locations.


Dun, St Kilda. Photograph courtesy: Dougie Cunningham

The collection incorporates photographic tours of Glasgow and Edinburgh, as well as a range of architecturally significant sites including medieval castles, fortified houses, ancient stone circles, crofts and peel towers.


Neist Lighthouse, Skye. Photograph courtesy: Dougie Cunningham


Lochan na h-Achlaise. Photograph courtesy: Dougie Cunningham

Cunningham provides maps and practical advice for readers such as parking directions, the accessibility of locations and recommended times to visit.

by Rosie Byers

Photographing Scotland is one of the fotoVUE collection of photography guides.

Photographing Scotland is available to pre-order from fotoVUE for the reduced price of £22, including free UK delivery, with an estimated arrival of early December. Once released, the book will revert to its original price of £27.95.

Prints and 2018 calendars can also be ordered from Dougie Cunningham’s website.

LAST month the Graduate Fashion Foundation, the charity behind Graduate Fashion Week, collaborated with UK Fashion & Textiles Association (UKFT) to host a reception at the Houses of Parliament. The event showcased a selection of award-winning graduate work and introduced young designers to fashion industry leaders.

Graduate Abisola Akanni with her work. Photograph courtesy: Stefan Jakubowski

Attendees included established designers, Company CEOs, Directors, Buyers, HR and PR teams and a selection of VIP guests, as well as representatives from organisations such as the British Fashion Council, Business of Fashion and Central Saint Martins.

The charity’s sponsors and Trustees were also present alongside Global Ambassadors Henry Holland, Holly Fulton, Mandi Lennard, Caryn Franklin MBE, Ian R Webb and Gareth Pugh.


Claire Tagg and Caryn Franklin MBE. Photograph courtesy: Stefan Jakubowski

The reception was opened by host Damian Collins, MP, Chairman of The Culture, Media and Sports Committee. Further speeches by Hilary Alexander OBE, the charity’s Industry Trustee, Nigel Lugg, Chairman of UKFT, and Mark Newton-Jones, the charity’s chairman and CEO of Mothercare outlined the positive impact of the charity and Graduate Fashion Week on graduate’s careers. They further highlighted the importance of its key sponsors Swarovski, Marks & Spencer, Tu at Sainsbury’s, Clarks and Smartfocus.


Gareth Pugh at the Houses of Parliament event. Photograph courtesy: Nicholas Kristiansen


Guests at the Houses of Parliament event. Photograph courtesy: Nicholas Kristiansen

Mark also announced the launch of the Graduate Fashion Week Protégé Project, a mentoring scheme designed to support a selection of graduates for two years after the completion of their degrees, as well as a new series of masterclasses in collaboration with partner universities.

by Rosie Byers

THIS month The Lowry announced the second edition of Week 53, its biennial interdisciplinary arts festival. The 12-day event replaces the venue’s usual programme and utilises its entire space, including parts of the building not usually accessible to the public.

Based in Salford, The Lowry will celebrate its 18th birthday with the theme Coming of Age. Featured international artists explore the topic through art, drama, dance and interactive installations in over 70 performances and commissions.

Amongst the festival’s events is Toast, a first-time stage adaption by Henry Filloux-Bennett of food writer Nigel Slater’s autobiography, which depicts the experience of adolescence through food. Adolescence is also the central theme of Brighton Rock, a performance of Graham Greene’s coming of age thriller by Pilot Theatre and York Theatre Royal at the Lowry’s Quays Theatre.


Brighton Rock poster. Photograph courtesy: Pilot Theatre and The Lowry

Other interpretations of the theme include a focus on the coming of the robot age. The premiere of French choreographer Eric Minh Cuong Castaing’s School of Moon explores advancements in artificial intelligence and will feature both child and robotic dancers.


School of Moon. Photograph Courtesy: Marc Da Cunha Lopes, Shonen and The Lowry

Week 53 is underpinned by The Lowry’s aim to showcase a wide range of experimental contemporary art. Its inaugural festival, themed Locus, attracted 10,000 visitors and contributed to its position as the most visited cultural space in the North West of England.

By Rosie Byers

Week 53 will run from May 17 until May 28, 2018 at The Lowry, Pier 8, The Quays, Salford M50 3AZ.

Admission to some elements of the programme is free of charge, and ticketed events are set-priced at £10 or £20. All ticketed performances will be allocated pay what you decide seats, with the aim of encouraging audiences to engage with something new.

Tickets for Toast, Brickton Rock and School of Moon are on sale now at The Lowry’s website.

CLAY artist Phoebe Cummings has been selected from 12 finalists as the winner of the inaugural £10,000 Woman’s Hour Craft Prize. The prize was established in October 2016 by the Crafts Council, BBC Radio 4 and the V&A, with the aim of celebrating craft artists in the UK.

The finalists were chosen from over 1,500 applications by judging panel of 29 including artists, editors, professors, curators and creative directors. She was then awarded the prize by Rosy Greenlees, Executive Director of the Crafts Council; Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A; Martha Kearney, BBC journalist and broadcaster; Jacky Klein, art historian; and Susie Lau, fashion writer and style influencer.


Antediluvian Swag by Phoebe Cummings, 2016, New Art Centre.
Photograph courtesy: Sylvain Deleu

Phoebe uses unfired clay to create sculptures and installations that disintegrate over time. Her works last only for the duration of an exhibition, after which materials are reused on future projects whenever possible. As a result, her career has been led by commissions for public galleries and museums, rather than the production of pieces for sale.


Phoebe Cummings working on an installation.
Photograph courtesy: Sylvain Deleu

For the Craft Prize Phoebe created a fountain that dissolves as the water flows. The piece was inspired by fragments of the recently restored 18th Century Meissen Fountain, which she first saw as an Artist in Residence at the V&A in 2010.

Triumph of the Immaterial by Phoebe Cummings for the Woman’s Hour Craft Prize, 2017.
Photograph courtesy: Victoria and Albert Museum, London

by Rosie Byers

The 12 finalists’ work has been showcased at the V&A since September 2017 and will be on display until February 5, 2018 at the Sackler Centre for arts education, Room 220, V&A Museum, Cromwell Rd, Knightsbridge, London SW7 2RL. Admission to the exhibition is free. Details of the featured pieces can be found at the V&A website.

SONGS FOR Winter, an exhibition showcasing the work of Pauline Burbidge and her husband Charles Poulsen, opened this month at Edinburgh’s City Art Centre.

Their art focuses on themes of energy, the natural world, spirituality and seasonal changes. Both artists use a variety of materials with an emphasis on drawing, and the presentation explores the similarities and diversity of their work.

Textile artist Pauline sees stitching as evocative of drawn lines and draws and monoprints directly onto her fabrics.

Pauline Burbidge standing in front of Dancing Lines, created in 1998 and on loan from the National Museums of Scotland. Charles Poulsen creates large-scale drawings on paper and sculpture, which he crafts from wood wax and training trees.

Charlie Poulsen resting on Waxwork V between sculptures entitled Waxwork III and Waxwork IV, all dated 2016.
The central sculpture is made from paper, wax and lead, the others from wax and paper.
Behind him is a selection of Cyanotype prints made by Pauline Burbidge

Sound composer and scientist Mike Worboys has been commissioned to create a sound collage to accompany the showcase. Cinematographer David Martin has also been enlisted to make a short film.

by Rosie Byers

The exhibition is now open at City Art Centre, 2 Market Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1DE and will run until March 4, 2018.

Admission to the space is free, and the Songs for Winter booklet is available to purchase for five pounds.

Their book Open Studio includes works from Songs for Winter and can be ordered for £20 by contacting info@paulineburbidge-quilts.com.

INTERNATIONAL travelling exhibition Artist Textiles – Picasso to Warhol from London’s Fashion and Textile Museum will be showcasing at World Heritage Site, New Lanark, Scotland at the beginning of next year.

Artist Textiles has been touring London, the Netherlands, USA and Canada since 2014 and will now be displayed at New Lanark’s new exhibition galley. The show takes a look at the history of 20th century textile art, including the works of Henri Matisse, Salvador Dali, Barbara Hepworth and Andy Warhol. Presented also will be the personal collection of British designer Zandra Rhodes, including the work of leading fashion designers and manufacturers.

im1-nlArtist Textiles, Fashion and Textile Museum London

Influenced by major European and American art movements, including Cubism, Abstraction, Surrealism and Pop Art, the collection of over 200, many unique and previously unseen pieces reveal how people were able to express themselves, through modern art, clothing and furnishings.

Dennis Nothdruft, curator of the Fashion and Textiles Museum and exhibition developer, states “this exhibition highlights the importance of the textile industry in the dissemination and promotion of contemporary art.  Manufacturers and mills had the foresight to work with painters and sculptors to develop beautiful fabrics that democratized modern art for the masses.”

im2-nlArtist Textiles, Fashion and Textile Museum London

New Lanark World Heritage Site, founded in 1785 by David Dale and Richard Arkwright was previously an 18th century cotton spinning mill village. Located near to Glasgow and Edinburgh, New Lanark enjoyed spinning success until 1968. Now a registered Scottish charity, New Lanark has been undergoing renovation to restore the village to its former working glory and attracting over 300,000 visitors per year.

Scott McCauley, New Lanark Trust Chief Executive, said “we are very proud that Artist Textiles – Picasso to Warhol will make its Scottish debut at New Lanark in 2018, officially launching New Lanark’s brand new Temporary Exhibition Gallery.”

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image:

Artist Textiles – Picasso to Warhol will show from 26 January – 29 April 2018

The exhibition will be held in a new exhibition gallery within one of New Lanark’s 18th century cotton mill buildings.

Find Details of New Lanark’s daily guided tours, printmaking workshops, textile design competition, meals and gift shops here

The Fashion and Textile Museum, founded by iconic British designer Zandra Rhodes in 2003, is part of Newham College London – one of Europe’s largest further education colleges and is the only museum in the UK solely dedicated to showcasing developments in contemporary fashion.

The Fashion and Textile Museum offers an exciting programme of exhibitions and displays throughout the year, alongside an array of talks, events and workshops with industry professionals.

THIS MONTH the Van Gogh Museum opened a show entitled Zeng Fanzhi | Van Gogh, which showcases five works by contemporary Chinese artist Zeng Fanzhi.

Zeng Fanzhi has previously exhibited his work at The National Art Museum of China, Musée du Louvre, Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris and The Metropolitan Museum of Art. His work conforms to an expressionistic style and technique, of which Van Gogh has been credited as a direct influence.

Zeng Fanzhi, Van Gogh II, 2017. Photograph courtesy: the Van Gogh Museum

Zeng Fanzhi has created a set of six paintings inspired by Van Gogh’s self-portraits for the museum, three of which are on display for the first time at the exhibition. Also included is a still life of his boots inspired by Gogh’s famous paintings of shoes, and a large piece reminiscent of Gogh’s Wheatfield with Crows.

Zeng Fanzhi, Boots, 2009. Photograph courtesy: the Van Gogh Museum


Zeng Fanzhi, Wheatfield with Crows, 2017. Photograph courtesy: the Van Gogh Museum

The exhibition is part of an ongoing series at the museum, aimed at displaying the range of artists who have been influenced by Van Gogh.

A comprehensive book is also being published alongside showcase, which will discuss the artistic link between the two painters.

by Rosie Byers

Zeng Fanzhi | Van Gogh is open on the third floor of the Van Gogh Museum, Museumplein 6, 1071 DJ Amsterdam, Netherlands, from October 20 until February 25, 2018.

The project was made in collaboration with the Fanzhi Foundation and the artist’s studio team, and supported exclusively by Mr. Chung-kiu Cheung and Mrs. Cecilia Cheung, members of the Yellow House.

THE PROTÈGÈ PROJECT launched by Graduate Fashion Week, an event hosted in London each June, aims to aid and support award winners and BA fashion graduates enter into the industry.

Graduate Fashion Week managing and creative director, Martyn Roberts, and acclaimed fashion journalist Hilary Alexander OBE, will give masterclasses at universities across the country to educate and guide students, assisting them in creating strong and consistent portfolios and collections. The masterclasses also hope to show current fashion students how GFW can support their careers within the fashion industry.

i1ctClaire Tagg, Graduate Collection 2017, UCA Rochester

Creative Claire Tagg, M&S Womenswear Award runner up and Daniel Rynne, Debenhams Menswear Award winner both participated in GFW17. Give interviews detailing their successes and aspirations for the next steps in their careers and their work with major British fashion retailers.

i2drDaniel Rynne, Graduate Collection 2017, photo by Jack Mitchell and Daniel Rynne

This October, Graduate Fashion Week will be taking 11 graduates, including award winners to Fashion Forward Dubai, the Middle East’s largest fashion event. There, the designers will present their collections to an audience of international fashion devotees.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image: Claire Tagg, Graduate Collection 2017, UCA Rochester

View Graduate Fashion Week Masterclass dates here

See interviews, images, and videos here

Graduate Fashion Week 2018 will showcase at the Old Truman Brewery, Shoreditch, East London from June 3-6 2018

INTERNATIONAL and UK designers are now invited to apply to the largest independent fashion showcase, Fashion Scout LFW AW18. Taking place during London Fashion Week, the showcase is open to emerging, established an international creative talent.

Following the success of the designs at the most recent Fashion Scout LFW SS18, it’s a good time to reflect on backstage style and creativity. A total of 38 catwalk looks were composed for each of the inspiring collections, with hair and makeup looks created by official sponsors, Toni & Guy (hair) and Kryolan (makeup). The bold styles feature fierce, teased hair and block coloured eyeshadow.

imlfw1Toni & Guy, Elephantasia, photo by Rory James, 2017

Billie Jacobina and EDDA (Edda Gimnes), winners of the SS18 Merit Awards, present their collections with backstage videos. Fashion Illustration course leader at the London College of Fashion, Sue Dray featured as artist in residence at the showcase. Dray created multiple, live drawings for each show, from the designer’s catwalk collections.

im2lfwRocky Star, photo by Nicholas Kristiansen, 2017

The showcase will also include an interview with Indian designer, Rocky Star. His SS18 collection displaying vibrant colours and animal prints, combined with classic silhouettes. The interview will focus on his thoughts on the show and the inspiration for his works.

im3lfwAn image by artist Sue Dray. Photograph: Stephan, 2017

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image: Kryolan, Leaf Xia, photograph by Rory James

See a selection of short films, backstage videos  and full shows from Fashion Scout SS18 here

London Fashion Week 2018 takes place from February 16-20
Tickets for London Fashion Week 2018 are available here

THE BRITISH Fashion Council has announced a new partnership between its Fashion Trust programme and HSBC Commercial Banking. Recipients of the Fashion Trust’s grant scheme are to receive additional mentoring and business guidance from the financial services organisation.

The BFC Fashion Trust was founded in February 2011 and provides philanthropic financial assistance to selected designers. The programme is one of a range of initiatives affiliated with BFC that support the growth of emerging entrepreneurs and startups in the fashion industry. It also seeks to promote the art of fashion design to the public more broadly.

The 11 beneficiaries for 2017 are Edeline Lee, Eudon Choi, Fyodor Golan, Georgia Hardinge, Huishan Zhang, Isa Arfen, Marques’Almeida, Osman, Rejina Pyo, Sharon Wauchob and Teatum Jones, and have been awarded a total of £450,000.


Fashion Trust Co-chairs Sian Westerman and Tania Fares.
Photograph courtesy: Darren Gerrish and the British Fashion Council

The organisation is directed by its co-chairs Tania Fares and Sian Westerman, the BFC and the BFC Fashion Trust Advisory Committee. In light of the new partnership, the Fashion Trust Advisory Committee will be joined by Daniel Howlett, Head of Large Corporates, UK, and Regional Head of Client Coverage, Europe.

by Rosie Byers

THE NORTHERN Design Festival opens next month with the theme Material Matters. The festival comprises of exhibitions, talks and workshops and is curated by Design Event, a non-profit arts enterprise which supports artists and designers working throughout the north of England, and organise the festival to promote and sell their work.

This year’s festival will showcase over 50 designers in nine exhibitions and prominent artists in the fashion, textiles, illustration, architecture, ceramics, furniture and lighting industries will show alongside local young creatives. The Material Matters exhibition features fashion, interior and graphic design by Newcastle college students, and the Chairs and Lamps exhibition will present work by the 3D Design students of Northumbria University.

Festival Director Karen Nairstone with 2017 designs at the Assembly House. Photograph courtesy of Sasa Savic

The festival will be held predominantly at The Assembly House in Newcastle, as well as five other venues across Newcastle and Gateshead.

Low Ken Stool and Circular Harry Table by Godfrey Syrett featured in the Design Source exhibition

Events will begins with Design NOW, a one-day symposium held in partnership with the Northern Design Centre and supported by Different, Newcastle College and G.F Smith. Speakers include graphic designer, artist and printmaker Anthony Burrill and graphic designer, speaker and writer Sarah Hyndman.

Scheduled tours and talks include BoConcept Newcastle, who will be sharing insights into their use of heritage materials for individuality and customisation.

Jewellery by Chloe Lewis featured in the Design Source exhibition 

New to the schedule this year is Design Source, a selling exhibition for interior design buyers and professionals curated by a panel of industry experts.

by Rosie Byers

Northern Design opens on November 3 until November 8, from 10-5pm. For full programme and venue details visit here

Tickets are £2.50 for unlimited exhibition entry, or free for under 18s and staff places on educational group visits. Early Bird tickets for Design NOW are available for purchase from here for £53.

The Northern Design Festival is organised in partnership with Newcastle College, Northumbria University and Cleveland College of Art & Design. It is also funded by brands including BoConcept, Ryder, NBS and GF Smith, industry bodies Arts Council England, the RIBA and UK Crafts Council, and regional businesses including Northern Design Centre, Abercrombies, Cool Blue, RASKL, Newcastle Arts Centre, Different, Potts Printers, Durham Gin, and creative agency JUMP.

LUXURY BRITISH, women’s and menswear label Phoebe English will be the next designer to feature in Fashion In Motion, this October at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Fashion In Motion will highlight the precise beauty of six years of Phoebe English’s collections. Made in England, the Phoebe English, label deploys lost and rarely used garment construction and fabrication techniques, embodying the mark of the maker.

pe1Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

The fashion collections will be centred within set designs, produced to capture the imagination and involve the viewer, setting the label apart from trend led, mass-made fashion design. The collections are aimed toward a balance between design and craft. A pop up shop of selected garments, specially crafted pieces for the V&A and unique exclusive works to be sold at V&A promotional prices will feature as part of the show.

English says, “Taking part in Fashion in Motion has a particular significance to me, as the V&A was the museum in which I decided to follow my interest in fashion. It is the building where my love for clothing and design were contextualised into a tangible practice and pathway”

After debuting her first fashion collection and graduating from Central Saint Martins with an MA from their Fashion Programme, English won several awards including L’Oréal’s Professional Creative Award, the Chloe Award and the Ungaro bursary. This collection was also picked up by luxury fashion shop, Dover Street Market London.

pe3Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

In 2013, The Centre for Fashion Enterprise awarded English a mentoring and sponsorship as part of the coveted Venture Programme. And two years later, Forbes listed English in the 30 under 30, influential Art and Style category and her menswear line, Phoebe English MAN, was awarded the NEWGEN Award by the British Fashion Council.

Inspiring designers, students and researchers, the V&A  is home to some of the UK’s biggest national, fashion collections along with unique and comprehensive collections of world fashion spanning the last four centuries.

V&A fashion curator, Oriole Cullen says, “Phoebe English is a designer for whom the presentation of her work is an integral part of her design process. For each of her collections she creates intriguing and beautiful scenarios in which to showcase her designs. We are delighted to have the opportunity to work with Phoebe as part of the V&A Fashion in Motion programme, particularly as she has previously used the Museum as a source of inspiration for her collections”

pe2Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

Catwalk shows from leading, international fashion designers bring their collections to V&A Fashion In Motion, to show fashion garments moving and animated, as they should be seen. Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacriox are some of the designers previously showcased at the museum.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Featured Image: Phoebe English, Autumn Winter 17 Presentation, photo: Polly Brown.

Fashion In Motion: Phoebe English opens October 20. Tickets are available online. Admission is free.
The exhibition will be shown in the Raphael Gallery, Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London, SW7 2RL

 

THIS November, Modern Art Oxford will show the UK’s first in-depth exhibition of 20th Century Scandinavian artist Hannah Ryggen’s work. The 16 pieces will include an early self-portrait painted in 1914, tapestries that explored fascism in the 1930s and 1940s, and a number of her last works produced in the 1950s and 1960s.

Hannah Ryggen, Blood in the Grass, 1966. Courtesy of Modern Art Oxford and ODE-Art Museums of Bergen.
Photograph: KODE/Dag Fosse. © Hannah Ryggen / DACS 2017

Modern Art Oxford was founded in 1966, and has built a reputation for holding innovative exhibitions. The organisation seeks to engage and educate wider audiences about both the artwork they feature, and its relevance within society today.

It focuses on the relationship between art and ideas, for which Hannah Ryggen’s career provides broad scope for analysis. Ryggen is known to have been consistently influenced by contemporary socio-political events, such as the Nazi occupation of Norway and the Vietnam War.

Hannah Ryggen, 6 October 1942, 1943. Courtesy of Modern Art Oxford and Nordenfjeldske
Kunstindustrimuseum/ Museene I Sør-Trøndelag. Photograph: Anders S. Solberg/Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum. © Hannah Ryggen / DACS 2017

by Rosie Byers

The exhibition is on from November 11 until February 18, 2018 at Modern Art Oxford, 30 Pembroke Street, Oxford, OX1 1BP.

A press review and introductory talk by the show’s curator will take place on November 10 from 11am until 1pm.

For both press enquiries, or to RSVP to the press review contact:
media@modernartoxford.org.uk
Tel: +44 (0)1865 813 826,
or
Communications Manager Clare Stimpson: clare.stimpson@modernartoxford.org.uk.

The exhibition has been organised in collaboration with Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum / Museene I Sør-Trøndelag, and supported in part by an Art Fund Jonathan Ruffer Curatorial Research Grant.

THIS AUTUMN the National Gallery will exhibit Monochrome: Painting in Black and White. The collection of more than 50 painted objects explores the use of shadow and light, over the past 700 years, analysing what happens without colour and the compelling use of black and white.

The exhibition, showing paintings and drawing, unites works of the old masters such as Jan van Eyck and Rembrandt with contemporary artists including Gerhard Richter and Chuck Close. The major, worldwide loans allow Monochrome to give an insight into the use and choice of colour, or lack of it. Each of the five rooms shows the viewer a different aspect of grisaille – black, white and grey painting.

Curators of Monochrome, Leila Packer and Jennifer Sliwka remark, “Painters reduce their colour palette for many reasons, but mainly as a way of focusing the viewer’s attention on a particular subject, concept or technique.” Devoid of colour, artists can focus greatly on form and texture within the work.

im1Jacob de Wit, Jupiter and Ganymede, 1739, Oil on canvas, 36.9 × 55.5 cm © Ferens Art Gallery, Hull Museums

Some of the earliest Western artworks in grisaille date back to the Middle Ages, for the purpose of focusing the mind and for spiritual connection. For some religious orders avoiding colour was a form of self-discipline, in the 12th century French Cistercian monks created grey stained-glass windows, with images painted in black and yellow.

From the 15th century, artists used black and white to simplify challenges when drawing their desired subject. The lack of colour allowed the artist to focus solely on light and shade, these studies could even act as a reusable template.

The question for many artists was how to replicate stone sculptures on canvas. Highly decorative and illustrative art, including wall paintings and sculpted stucco, popular in the 15th and 16th century, Northern Europe brought attention to works such as Jupiter and Ganymede by Jacob de Wit, 1739. With the development of printmaking, to fascinate audiences’ artists paintings would often replicate a printed work. The later development of film and photography, beginning in 1839, prompted artists to recreate the effects of this media to respond or challenge specific elements created in the photograph.

In time, grisaille developed from a tool used to assist the painting, into a complete and independent work. As the pieces were inspired, so well considered and demonstrative of the artists skill they became highly demanded.

nl1
Hendrik Goltzius, Without Ceres and Bacchus, Venus Would Freeze, 1599. Chalk, ink and oil on paper, 43.5 × 32.1 cm. The British Museum, London © The Trustees of The British Museum

Colour used by an artist as well as light and space can manipulate viewer reactions and emotions. In abstractions and installations, an absence of colour can often be more thought-provoking.

Gabriele Finaldi, Director of the National Gallery explains, “Artists choose to use black and white for aesthetic, emotional and sometimes even for moral reasons. The historical continuity and diversity of monochrome from the Middle Ages to today demonstrate how crucial a theme it is in western art.”

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image: Olafur Eliasson, Room for one colour, 1997. Installation view at Moderna Museet, Stockholm 2015. Courtesy of the artist; Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, New York; neugerriemschneider, Berlin© Olafur Eliasson. Photo: Anders Sune Berg

Book tickets for Monochrome: Painting in Black and White

Admission is charged. Members and under 12s free

The exhibition will be open from October 30, 2017 until February 18, 2018

The collection will be displayed in the Sainsbury Wing of The National Gallery, London WC2N 5DN

The exhibition is organised by the National Gallery in collaboration with Museum Kunstpalast, Düsseldorf and is supported by Howard and Roberta Ahmanson and other donors

UK-based company Sundried produces premium ethical activewear. Its range includes t-shirts, leggings and accessories for both men and women. All products are made from recycled materials, including coffee cups and plastic bottles.

Its ethical approach extends throughout the business, with efforts to minimise its carbon footprint in manufacture and distribution processes, and to enhance customer experience. Handmade in Portugal and Italy, they provide free UK delivery and cut worldwide shipping costs by 50 per cent. Each purchase also incorporates a pledge to Water For Kids, a charity organisation that supplies safe drinking water to developing communities in Africa.


Men’s T-shirt made from coffee cups. Courtesy of Sundried

The range is tailored for movement, including temperature control technology, multi-way stretch fabrics and sweat-wicking materials.

Sundried’s founders are athletes and personal trainers, who develop these features from personal experience. The brand is further endorsed by prominent athletes; its popular ambassador programme includes World Ironman Champion Alice Hector and Team GB World Champion Duathlete Claire Steels.

Personal Trainer Sophie Holmes in Sundried clothing. Courtesy of Sundried

Sundried is dedicated to making investment pieces that are sustainable for both their customer, and the planet. With the world consuming 400 per cent more clothing than two decades ago, they seek to take responsibility as producers, and provide consumers with viable products to do the same.

by Rosie Byers

The collection is available on Sundried’s website.

Front Page Image: Personal Trainer Sophie Holmes, Courtesy of Sundried

THE University of the Arts London will open a new venture, named not just a shop, at the end of September. The space will stock fashion, home and giftware products, as well as limited edition prints.


A collection of not just a shop’s products. Photograph: Yeshen Veneema

The work of both current students and alumni will feature, making not just a shop a platform for their career development. The range has been curated by Natalie Stevens, UAL’s Enterprise Space Retail Manager, who is overseeing the launch of the shop in cooperation with UAL careers and employability schemes. In turn, the project will function as an integrated strategy to support all UAL students. Profits will be allocated to the department’s enterprise programme, and put towards one-to-one business education, funding, and free workshops and talks. The space will also be used for these events.

Not just a shop’s greetings cards. Photograph: Yeshen Veneema


Homeware items for sale at the space. Photograph: Yeshen Veneema

UAL seeks to provide customers with the opportunity to buy unique products, support a sustainability-focused business, and invest in the next generation of artists and designers in London.

by Rosie Byers

All photographs: Yeshen Veneema

Not just a shop will be open to the public on September 28, Monday-Friday from 11am until 3pm, at 272 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7EY

FASHION Scout London is the largest independent event showing at London Fashion Week this September. Founded and directed by Martyn Roberts, the organisation discovers and nurtures emerging fashion labels, and provides them with an acclaimed platform for development.

Their individual and collective showcases include an international range of brands. Over the weekend Lunyee, a collaborative art and design project operating in Shenzhen, China, presented their readymade collection as well did N&S Gaia, a womenswear label based in New Delhi.

Lunyee SS18, Courtesy of Fashion Scout

On Friday Fashion Scout presented 10 showcases, including their selected ones to watch Neo Design, Starsica, Ji Won Choi, and Triinu Pungits.

Starsica SS18, Courtesy of Fashion Scout

Triinu Pungits SS18, Courtesy of Fashion Scout

The schedule for the remaining of their 37 shows and presentations can be found on their website. The events will take place at their exhibition rooms and two catwalk spaces in Freemasons’ Hall, 60 Great Queen Street, London, WC2B 5AZ.

by Rosie Byers

For press and ticket requests contact press@fashionscoutevents.com, or nicola@fashionscoutevents.com. The shows will also be live-streamed online here.

Front Page Image: Starsica SS18, Courtesy of Fashion Scout

HOLDING THE BLUE, the first UK solo exhibition by Cig Harvey will open this September at Beetles + Huxley, Mayfair, London. The work shown features 30 photographs taken throughout 2003 until 2017 and will be a foreword to her new book You an Orchestra, You a Bomb. The book will be released this November by Schlit Publishing.

ch1Birds of New England, Rockport, Maine, 2006 by Cig Harvey

Having pursued photography since she was 13, to begin studying an MFA in photography at Rockport College, Harvey moved from Devon, UK to Maine, New England, USA. Harvey’s early work focused on her own life experiences with a fantasy twist, often using herself as a model. The well thought out and self-reflecting work is heavily symbolic and metaphorical. Over time Harvey’s work became less meticulous and more spontaneous, featuring a larger selection of models including her neighbours, daughter and husband.

ch2Red Curtains, Maine, 2017 by Cig Harvey

In her most recent work, Harvey has returned to her hometown Maine, documenting everyday events and locations. Similarly, to the fantasy version of her life portrayed in previous works, the current work takes strange combinations of colour and lighting which give the images an eerie quality. The works are a visual short story with a strong narrative, in each borderless image of randomly selected people and places, time seems to move and the subject is almost always partially concealed, whether cropped out or obscured by light or an object.

Harvey’s work has previously been part of collections at major museums including the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, Texas and the International Museum of Photography and Film at the George Eastman House, Rochester, New York. Her work has been published in three monographs, You Look At Me Like An Emergency, 2012 and Gardening at Night, 2015, along with her upcoming book also published by Schlit Publishing.

ch3Kendall at Beauchamp by Cig Harvey

The photographer was a finalist for the BMW Prize at Paris Photo and for the Prix Virginia, an international women’s photography prize and a nominee for the John Gutmann fellowship and the Santa Fe Prize.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image: Scout in the Blizzard, Rockport, Maine, 2017 by Cig Harvey

The exhibition will be open from September 5 – 16, 10am – 5:30pm

Free Admission

Find more information at Beetles + Huxley.

THIS SEPTEMBER, Charity Project Joy of Living returns to One Poultry, City of London. Uniting over 100 designers, architects and artists, whose work is to be sold to raise funds for Maggie’s Centres. The charity helps people to cope with the impact of a cancer diagnosis, to continue to live in hope and with determination and to find a life beyond cancer.

The third event for the charity, held by design author and long-time supporter of Maggie’s, Max Fraser hopes to raise more than £80,000 for the charity, stating “after a very personal, emotional journey as I supported my mother through her six-year battle with cancer, I vowed to contribute in some way to mankind’s fight against this disease”.

m4Anonymous for Maggie’s Centres, Joy of Living project

Emerging and established designers have been asked to create and donate one-off pieces, expressing the joy of living. Using only three pieces of differently coloured paper supplied by G.F Smith from their Colourplan range.

A number of talented, creative individuals have donated their artworks including designers: Jasper Morrison, Fredrikson Stallard, Barber & Osgerby, Tom Dixon, Ross Lovegrove, Eley Kishimoto and Ilse Crawford, works by architects: John Pawson, Ivan Harbour and Steven Holl, jewellery designers: Hannah Martin and Jade Jagger and pieces from artists Daniel Eatock, Rolf Sachs and Jake and Dinos Chapman.

m2Anonymous for Maggie’s Centres, Joy of Living project

Each of the designers were provided with three A4 coloured sheets, randomly selected from 12 colours. The artists can manipulate the paper in any way they choose and are to write a short description about what inspired them. The signed works will be displayed anonymously, with the creator unrevealed until after purchase. The artwork should invoke an emotional response within the buyer, regardless of the name behind it. The inspiration for this design challenge and the Joy of Living project itself came from a thought shared by Maggie Keswick, charity founder “above all what matters is not to lose the joy of living in the fear of dying”

Speaking about the event, held at the Grade II, postmodern, listed building One Poultry, designed by James Stirling. Laura Lee, Chief Executive at Maggie’s explained “the design of our buildings, landscape and interiors is integral to offering the best possible support to people with cancer and their family and friends”. The charity has opened 21 centres in 21 years, across the UK with the support of Max Fraser and the Joy of Living project. Lee further stating, “good design is core to our belief in the best psychological support and partnering with the design industry means we can constantly learn what the best design looks like”

m3

Anonymous for Maggie’s Centres, Joy of Living project

For this year’s event Max Fraser has collaborated with friend, Aynsley Munsie and Amy Bicknell, project co-ordinator, along with various other generous supporters. All proceeds from the artworks sale will go to Maggie’s Centres Charity.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image: Joy of Living project for Maggie’s Centres, Anonymous

Joy of Living will be exhibited at One Poultry from September 5-10, from 10am – 7pm

All artwork is available to view and bid at Maggie’s Centres

View on location at One Poultry from September 5

Donate to Maggie’s Centres.

THIS YEAR Frequency festival focuses the theme of disPLACEment. Over ten days, the city of Lincoln’s medieval streets will host a number of art installations and events, which will blend a virtual, distended reality.

freq1WHIST by AΦE. Photograph: Paul Plews

Now in its fourth year, Frequency, presented by Midlands-based media arts producer, Threshold Studios culminates the work of local, national and international artists. The work will be inspired by the digital conversion of community, identity and a sense of place, alongside important global issues such as migration, inequality and class divides.

“We are delighted to be returning to Lincoln for Frequency 2017, an access-for-all festival that celebrates and debates the ever-growing realm of digital culture, ”explained Uzma Johal MBE, co-director of the festival and Threshold Studios.

freq2DUET, Invisible Flock (UK) and Quicksand (India), Leeds, April 2017

Planned enterprises featured in the event will include DUET, a lighting installation from the collaboration of UK based, Invisible Flock and India based Quicksand. Accompanying, is a physical theatre and virtually, augmented reality hybrid piece titled WHIST by AΦE, a dance company based in Kent, UK, inspired by Sigmund Freud and a VR film Empire Soldiers detailing the unknown story of WW1 Caribbean soldiers, from Leicester-based theatre company, METRO-BOULOT-DODO.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Frequency Festival will show from October 20–29

Frequency Festival is presented by Threshold Studios and brought to the city through partnership with the University of Lincoln, Lincoln BIG, Visit Lincoln and Lincolnshire One Venue, funded by The National Lottery

Learn more about Frequency Festival

Front Page Image: WHIST by AΦE, Scenes, Golden Room.

THE British Fashion Council have announced that The Fashion Awards 2017 will be returning to the Royal Albert Hall, Kensington, London this December. The annual event celebrates fashion excellence with outstanding individuals and business, both British and international, taking centre stage and recognising their contributions to the global fashion industry.

The BFC’s Education Foundation is funded primarily by The Fashion Awards. The premise of the awards is securing the future for the next generation of fashion talent but to also celebrate current leaders and their exceptional contributions to the industry. Caroline Rush CBE, CEO of The British Fashion Council, said, “Last year’s awards marked a landmark moment for the Education Foundation; it has been fantastic to see our industry reaffirm its support for education with such generosity.”  Thanking one of their main sponsors, Rush continued, “Swarovski have set the bar with their incredibly generous donation to this year’s fundraising efforts.”

gigiGigi Hadid and Donatella Versace backstage at The Fashion Awards 2016.
Photograph: Greg Williams, British Fashion Council

The Fashion Awards 2016 raised £700,000. The BFC Education Foundation received £300,00, with £400,00 invested in NEWGEN business support and the BFC Colleges Council. To date, the foundation has given over £100,000 to 12 BA and MA scholarships, in the last academic year. BFC Chairman Dame Natalie Massenet MBE said, “Last year we set the goal of raising £10million in 10 years to educate talented young people”.

Swarovski, acclaimed Austrian crystal producers, continue their generous support of the educational foundation, in advance of the event, pledging £300,000. Nadja Swarovski, of the Swarovski Executive Board stated, “An essential part of Swarovski’s mission is to nurture young designers and invest in the next generation of fashion talent.” Donations from Swarovski and those of some of the most esteemed British brands help maintain the future success of the industry for the next generation due to the impact of rising living expenses and tuition fees.

jadenEdward Enninful OBE, Jaden Smith and Skepta backstage at The Fashion Awards last year.
Photograph: Greg Williams, British Fashion Council

The event will be attended by designers, brands, creatives, business leaders, investors, media, VIPs, students and the general public. The ceremony not only recognises designers but to also diverse and talented individuals and their contributions to fashion. Nominations and winners are to be voted for by a panel of 2,000 international, key figures from across the fashion industry.

The categories for this year’s awards are as follows:
Accessories Designer
British Designer – Menswear
British Designer – Womenswear
British Emerging Talent – Menswear
British Emerging Talent – Womenswear
Business Leader
Designer of the Year
Model of the Year
Urban Luxury Brand

Special recognition awards are also to be presented on the night for the categories: the Outstanding Achievement Award, the Swarovski Award for Positive Change and the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator.

by Pierra George-Robertson

The The Fashion Awards 2017  take place on December 4

The event partners are Swarovski, American Express and Mercedes Benz

American Express offer card holders 72-hour pre-sale for The Fashion Awards 2017 from August 15. General sale is from August 18. Tickets can be purchased via Ticketmaster

Make a donation to The Fashion Awards.

INSPIRED by fashion designer Martine Rose’s AW17 collection, the hyper-colour zine Don Pedro, reflects the style and diverse nature of the Colombian Market in Seven Sisters, north London where the fashion designers runway show took place. The combination of sportswear and tailoring this collection emanates, comes from the masculine form of the office and bank worker.

mr2Martine Rose: Don Pedro, colour lithograph print, A5, 2017

The zine, produced by Harry Fisher, senior buyer for Soho-based designer boutique Machine-A, combined with Britt Lloyd’s photographs and styled by Kate Iorga is completed by the Martine Rose label. Don Pedro, a limited edition of 200 copies takes Ditto’s art direction, presenting collages, typography and symbolism, found within the market setting and conversational fragments from Rose.

mr3Martine Rose: Don Pedro, colour lithograph print, A5, 2017

Features of the A5 zine include fluorescent ink, metallic golds and a variety of textures. The edition is an eight-colour, offset lithograph print and is released this week.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Don Pedro is available to purchase from Ditto London, retailing at £15.00.

 

A NEW show of the work of Van Eyck is opening at the National Gallery in London.  This autumn, his oil painting the Arnolfini portrait, is set to be exhibited at the National Gallery, providing a unique opportunity to view Pre-Raphaelite paintings next to the work that inspired them. The National Gallery received the Arnolfini portrait in 1842 and immediately captivated the Victorian audience. The Netherlandish/Flemish Van Eyck is one of the most significant representatives of Northern Renaissance art.

'Portrait of Giovanni(?) Arnolfini and his Wife' or 'The Arnolfini Portrait'Portrait of Giovanni Arnolfini and his Wife 1434 by Jan Van Eyck, Courtesy of The National Gallery London

The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood was made up of a group of young artists who sparked a revolution in British art. The Convex mirror in the Arnolfini painting is a key motif and it led the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood to explore the themes of distortion, doubling, and reflection. The painting has left an imprint on the Pre-Raphaelites’ work, spreading its motifs like the mirror device, seen in Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s Lucrezia Borgia and a pair of pointed slippers seen in Holman Hunt’s The Lady of Shalott.

mirror-final-versionConvex Mirror owned by Gabriel Dante Rossetti, Courtesy of Kelmscott Manor

The convex mirror has been an important source of inspiration for many generations of artists and so Van Eyck’s influence lives on.

by Marco Pretara

The exhibition, Reflections: Van Eyck and the Pre-Raphaelite’s is on from October 2, 2017 until April 2, 2018 at the National Gallery, London WC2N 5DN
Tel: 020 7747 2885
Email: information@ng-london.org.uk

Front Page Image: Portrait of Giovanni Arnolfini and his Wife 1434 by Jan Van Eyck, Courtesy of The National Gallery London

THE painter John Minton’s lively illustrations were very familiar to British people during the gloomy post-war years of the 1940s and ‘50s. His imitable style, which was instantly recognisable, appeared on film posters, textiles and book covers and captured the spirit of the times. Minton was a leading illustrator and a highly influential tutor at the Royal College of Art who worked in the Neo-Romantic tradition. He was also a prolific figurative painter and muralist and it this aspect of his work that the Pallant House Gallery in Chichester celebrates in a new exhibition. On display are wartime landscapes and paintings that explore current events of the time and book illustrations, posters and lithographs. Other work includes portraits of male students, friends and his partner, Raymond Ray.

John Minton, painting, Pallant House GalleryJohn Minton, Jamaican Village, 1951, oil on canvas, 152.4 x 362 cm, private collection.
Photograph: Courtesy of Christie’s Images Limited/Bridgeman Images and the Royal College of Art

At the outbreak of the Second World War, Minton registered as a conscientious objector but later served with the Royal Pioneer Corps. During this time he collaborated with the artist, Michael Ayrton in designing sets and costumes for John Gielgud’s production of Macbeth. Travelling to Europe and the Caribbean after the war, he became fascinated by the vibrancy of Jamaica where he identified “a disquiet that is potent and nameless”.

His impressions of life there manifest in his arresting twilight scene entitled Jamaican Village, a striking mural in deep green, fuchsia and acid hues that simmer with racial and political tension. Minton refused to conform to abstraction and preferred to paint figuratively. His paintings also reflect his conflict of emotions as a gay artist as he produced work at a time when homosexuality was illegal in Britain.

T202 IM 77John Minton, Landscape Near Kingston, Jamaica, 1950, Ink and watercolour on paper, Pallant House Gallery (Hussey Bequest, Chichester District Council). Photograph: Courtesy of Royal College of Art

In Corsica, Minton produced illustrations for Elizabeth David’s iconic book on Mediterranean food. While her recipes of garlic, wine and olives revitalised appetites dampened by the monotony of war-time rationing, Minton’s depiction of  sunny seas and al fresco dining hinted optimistically at a better lifestyle.

John Minton, Painting, Pallant House GalleryJohn Minton, Melon Sellers, Corsica, 1948, Oil on canvas, 56 x 46 cm, Jerwood Gallery.
Photograph: Courtesy of Royal College of Art

by Miranda Charalambous

The exhibition, John Minton: A Centenary is on until  October 1 at the Pallant House Gallery, 9 North Pallant, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 1TJ
Telephone: +44 (0)1243 774557
Email info@pallant.org.uk

Front page image: John Minton, Bridge from Cannon Street Station, 1946, Oil on canvas, 49 x 60cm, Pembroke College, Oxford, JCR Art Collection. Photograph: Courtesy of Royal College of Art

THIS September marks the 40-year anniversary of the opening of Parnham College – the pioneering, highly influential, globally regarded design college founded in 1977 by the equally eminent John Makepeace. The occasion, which represents a milestone not only for the college but for the career of Makepeace himself, is to be celebrated with the publication of Beyond Parnham – a visually stunning tome which reflects upon the remarkable impact that the school has had, and indeed continues to have, on the field of contemporary design.

 

parnham-houseParnham House

Makepeace’s simply phenomenal career can be traced back to the fascination for woodwork he exhibited from a remarkably young age. He began carpentry classes at the age of six and visited various factories and workshops which provided the inspiration which was to foster his creativity and come to determine his professional aspirations. After having completed an apprenticeship under Keith Cooper, Makepeace soon established his own furniture making workshop, the output of which earnt the young craftsman national acclaim and was distinguished by an eccentric, somewhat unconventional aesthetic.

“I have a strong rebellious streak – as an artist, designer and maker. I am constantly searching for more eloquent concepts for furniture. My objective is to achieve freer, lighter, stronger and more sculptural forms expressed through each unique commission,” he says. In the 1970s, Makepeace became a founder trustee of the Crafts Council which sought to promote the work of artist-craftsmen, though his work for the Council only made him more aware of the inadequacies in existing training schemes for those wanting to pursue career in the sector.

 

Parnham Anniversary Celebration, The Design Museum LondonSome Parnham College Alumni

This was precisely what prompted him in 1976, to purchase Parnham House in Dorset. He intended to renovate the stunning Tudor Manor and to turn it into an establishment that would firstly, provide larger studios for the growing team he employed, secondly to establish workshops and teaching facilities for aspiring furniture makers, and thirdly, to open the historic house to the public with exhibitions of contemporary art and design.

Since it opened, the college has fostered the careers of several world-famous designers such as Konstantin Gric, David Linley, Sean Sutcliffe, Juliane Trummer, Jake Phipps and Verena Wriedt to name but a few.

 

 

John Makepeace speaking at the Parnham Anniversary Celebration, The Design Museum LondonJohn Makepeace speaking at the Design Museum

Makepeace’s remarkable career culminated in his being granted an OBE for his services to furniture design, which was followed by the Prince Philip Designers Prize, a Lifetime Achievement Award and the Award of Distinction from the American Furniture Society and the first ever Lifetime Achievement Award to be granted by the Worshipful Company of Furniture Makers. The 40th anniversary of Parnham is yet another accomplishment for the Briton, who has significantly influenced the world of international design through not only his own creations, but through those of the alumni whom he has nurtured also.

The book will officially be launched at the British Design Museum in early September at an event with speakers including Richard Sennett, John Makepeace, Glenn Adamson and Catharine Rossi who will talk about the importance of making, design and the future of craftsmanship.

by Hannah Bergin

A small number of copies of Beyond Parnham are available now at the special price of £30 (plus £5pp). To buy one please visit Makepeace’s website

Copies are also available for sale from the Victoria and Albert Museum and the British Design Museum. For information about the book and to reserve your copy, please email Beyondparnham@gmail.com

A limited edition of the book will be published in September 2017 retailing at £35 (plus £5pp)

The Beyond Parnham launch at the British Design Museum will take place on September 5,  2017 at 18:15 until 19:45.
For more details and to book your place, please go to this link or visit Design Museum.

 

 

 

FASHIONWorked, the London-based website that focuses on independent designers and retailers, has announced the 2017 winners of its sixth annual awards – with Alexander McQueen, Lucy Choi and Elton John among them.

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Hilary Alexander at the FashionWorked Awards © Wayne Noir for FashionWorked

Despite big-name winners and a rather illustrious judging panel comprising Hilary Alexander, Naomi Isted and Harold Tillman to name but a few, The Haus of Fashion Worked is somewhat an anomaly in the sartorial industry, adopting a light-hearted, jovial, sometimes outright hilarious approach to fashion journalism. The digital platform, which in the words of its founder Ross Pollard represents ‘a passion for the little people in fashion’, promotes alternative, independent brands, designers and retailers.

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Joshua Kane at the FashionWorked Awards © Wayne Noir for FashionWorked

The evening was itself relaxed, amusing and intimate – a reflection of the FashionWorked ethos – and took part on the inconspicuous roof terrace of London’s Century Club.

fashion-worked-5

Po-Zu at the FashionWorked Awards © Wayne Noir for FashionWorked

The winners are as follows, all of whom were given a miniature golden hippopotamus to take home – Ross Pollard’s preferred disguise:

Best designer in association with Candid Magazine: Alexander McQueen
Best independent designer in association with Rion Magazine: Cimone
Best independent accessory maker in association with Ciroc Vodka: Lucy Choi
Best high street store in association with The Grooming: & Other Stories
Worst high street store: Topshop and Missguided
Best trend in association with Forward PR: The return of the white shirt
Worst trend in association with Farblack: Overly ripped denim
Best accessory in association with Ciroc Vodka: Pins and badges
Worst awards outfit of the year in association with Forward PR: Jennifer Lewis
Best awards outfit of the year in association with Ciroc Vodka: Viola Davis
The always incredible style icon in association with The Grooming Room: Elton John
Ethical fashion award in association with the Ethical Fashion Forum: Po-Zu
Best blog in association with Century Soho: The Male Stylist
Best event in association with Century Soho: The Joshua Kane London Palladium Catwalk
Best radio show: Hoxton Fashion
Lifetime achievement award: Alison Lowe

fashion-worked-1

Alison Lowe of Felicities at the FashionWorked Awards © Wayne Noir for FashionWorked

By Hannah Bergin

NEWLY appointed editor-in-chief of British Vogue, Edward Enninful makes his directorial debut with a video campaign and accompanying short film for fashion company The Gap. Entitled Bridging the Gap, the objective of the project is the promotion and celebration of diversity – ethnic, cultural, sexual, religious or otherwise.

bridging-the-gap
Adwoa Aboah in Bridging the Gap © Douglas Segars for Gap

The Ghanian-born British-raised fashion stylist Enninful, who was just a few months ago appointed as the new editor-in-chief of British Vogue, employs an array of inspirational public figures, from transgender model Casil McArthur to fencing champion Miles Chamley-Watson, Indian actress Priyanka Chopra to American rapper Wiz Khalifa, all of whom sport the infinitely versatile white tee.

bridging-the-gap-jpg-2
Casil McArthur in Bridging the Gap © Douglas Segars for Gap

The sartorial classic – something of a speciality for the American brand who specialise in jersey basics – embodies the very values the project seeks to promote, in its transcending of gender, age and trend barriers.

bridging-the-gap-jpg-3
Edward Enninful in Bridging the Gap © Douglas Segars for Gap

The cast sings Sunny which was made a hit by German euro-disco group Boney M and released in 1976 and has since become a musical classic. The song aptly conveys the optimism, cheerfulness and benevolence Enninful’s project promotes.

bridging-the-gap-jpg-4

The Cast of Bridging the Gap © Douglas Segars for Gap

by Hannah Bergin

Watch the campaign online here

THE Swiss goldsmith, Philippe Pfeiffer, who relocated his flourishing atelier from Zurich to trendy Spitalfields in London’s East End last year, has launched a new summer collection. Tucked away on a discreet corner of Artillery Lane, his new premises occupy an historic site where the artisans of the 18th century silk-weaving industry once resided. Pfeiffer is a bespoke jewellery designer of extraordinary talent who combines precious stones with untraditional materials to create dramatic one-off pieces and stunning collections.

Pfeiffer’s work, which is hand-crafted at his workshop on the same premises, attracts a predominantly German clientele but his designs also appeal to the French who are drawn to his distinctly bold and modish pieces. Pfeiffer also reinterprets vintage jewellery into sophisticated contemporary pieces but, as he explains,

“I want to be a witness of our time, and as much as I like antique and Victorian jewellery, I don’t want to copy it.”

Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery, Spitalfields, LondonFrom the Sea, Summer Collection 2017. Courtesy of Golden Squared Consulting and Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery

At street level, spectacular displays twinkle seductively from the cabinets but the origin of their intriguing journey begins downstairs. From every corner, surface and drawer of Pfeiffer’s workshop, a myriad of peculiarities abound. It is here that sharks’ teeth, fossilised dinosaur bones, trilobites, coral and other barnacled relics fuel the more experimental side of his work.

Fascinated by textures, the designer gleans much of his inspiration from nature, chance finds in French flea markets or on his travels to Africa and Brazil. His fabulous tarnished silver necklace of grey Fijian pearls clearly shows an intrigue in effects of corrosion too. Pfeiffer produces sketches for his commissioned designs but considers that prototypes are more useful to clients, “The nicest is being able to put something physical on your finger and you feel it and it is going to be exactly that,” he says.

Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery, Spitalfields, LondonRing in white gold with South Sea pearl, diamonds, rubies, sapphires and tsavorites.
From the Sea, Summer Collection 2017. Courtesy of Golden Squared Consulting and Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery

He firmly believes that a big personality is not prerequisite for wearing his  more flamboyant rings which he describes waggishly as “chunky”.  His wedding rings for men are also striking and equally substantial. Trimmed with brilliant cut diamonds, they are made with Aluflex, the very stuff of Ferraris and racing boats.

Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery, Spitalfields, LondonRing in white gold with lemon chrysoprase and moonstone.
From the Sea, Summer Collection 2017. Courtesy of Golden Squared Consulting and Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery

According to Pfeiffer, heirlooms are no longer popular as women simply do not want to wear their mothers’ jewellery. He explains that in the age of mass-production, preferences have changed and occasionally he is asked to copy costume jewellery, “People go, I’ve got this beautiful piece and it’s not real. I’d like it in the real thing, how much is that going to cost?”

A visit to this wonderful atelier will reveal all.

Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery, Spitalfields, LondonFrom the Sea, Summer Collection 2017. Courtesy of Golden Squared Consulting and Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery

by Miranda Charalambous

From the Sea, Summer Collection 2017 which is available from Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery, 52 Artillery Lane, London E1 7LS

Tel: +44 (0) 207 377 9722
Mobile: +44 (0) 734 155 6937

Email: info@philippepfeiffer.com

Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery is open during weekdays from 11am to 7pm, and at weekends by appointment.

Front page image: Philippe Pfeiffer outside his atelier in Spitalfields, London. Courtesy of Golden Squared Consulting and Philippe Pfeiffer Jewellery

 

HERITAGE crafts such as making clogs, pianos and blocks for millinery are still produced in Britain – but only just. Recent research by The Heritage Craft Association (HCA) reveals that many of Britain’s traditional craft skills are in decline and in some cases, no longer practised.  The Radcliffe Red List of Endangered Crafts is the title of the new project launched by HCA, supported by the Radcliffe Trust, which endeavours to oversee the viability of heritage craft skills on a regular basis. Their research reveals that the emergence of new technologies and an ageing workforce affect the viability of some craft practices but a lack of affordable workshops, training courses and business skills compromise others.

Heritage Craft Association, West Dean College, heritage crafts, Red ListWest Dean College student, Stacey Hibberd. Photograph courtesy of Christopher Ison

At present, Britain is one of the few countries that have chosen not to back UNESCO’s convention regarding the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage which supports craft skills. Greta Bertram, who led the research, has highlighted the need this month for increased government funding said, “For too long we have been bounced between heritage – which means historic buildings and museums – and arts – things that you can put on a shelf and admire.”

Heritage Craft Association, West Dean College, heritage crafts, Red ListWest Dean College student, Francesca Levey. Photograph courtesy of Christopher Ison

West Dean College in Chichester, who support the new Red List proposals have launched a brand new foundation degree in Historic Craft Practice which teaches metalwork, furniture, musical instrument-making and horology. The horology course includes a project for making an 18th century clock.

Heritage Craft Association, West Dean College, heritage crafts, Red ListWest Dean College student, Fons Vogel. Photograph courtesy of Christopher Ison

Apart from teaching crafts practice and tool-making, the course also endeavours to equip students with valuable business skills. Francine Norris, the Director for Education at West Dean College which specialises in conservation and creative arts education and is validated by the University of Sussex, said, “We hope the List will raise awareness of our rich craft heritage and encourage people to consider learning traditional skills many of which are still relevant today.”

by Miranda Charalambous

Front page image: West Dean College horology student. Photograph courtesy of Christopher Ison

 

 

 

 

NEW DESIGNERS, UK’s most important trade exhibition for emerging talent which open to the public, has announced  that tickets are now available for this year’s show. Now in its 32nd edition, New Designers is one of the most prominent industry shows thanks to its unique blend of design education, consumers and industry all mixed together to celebrate emerging talent. Taking place this June at the Business Design Centre, Islington,  the event is renowned for kick-starting the careers by providing a promotional platform for young creatives.

evgeniia-balashova-pink-broochEvgeniia Balashova pink brooch

Divided into two parts, the exhibition introduces over 3,000 design graduates to the wider public and also gives the visitors the chance to purchase their creations.

benjamin-craven-5-copyBenjamin Craven 5

The first three days will present the latest talent in textiles and fashion, costume design, jewellery and metalwork, ceramics and glass and contemporary design crafts. The following days will feature exhibitors in the disciplines of furniture, product and industrial design, spatial design and interiors, graphic design, illustration, animation, motion and digital arts.

stephanie-holt-ufo-bladedStephanie Holt UFO Bladed, Reniform, Hopper RINGS

As New Designers’ organisers strive to show completely new content each year, and also includes a One Year On retrospective presenting the progress of  exhibitors from previous years.

by Magda McCrimmon

New Designers  is on from June 28 until July 8, 2017

Tickets are now available  here

PLYWOOD is a versatile material with unique qualities which offers designers infinite possibilities for creativity. When steamed, curved and moulded plywood can be manipulated into curvaceous architectural forms or laser cut using the latest technology to create intricate lace-like tracery. Even plywood scraps can be re-purposed to make eco-friendly furniture pieces.

In celebration of this remarkable material, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London mounts Plywood: Material of the Modern World, a new exhibition which highlights the significance of plywood design this summer. Iconic designs of the twentieth century relating to architecture, furniture making and transport feature throughout the displays and bring to light the ground-breaking advances in plywood manufacture which include 19th century rotary cutting and the pioneering moulding techniques of the 1930s. Christopher Wilk, exhibition co-curator and Keeper of Furniture, Textiles and Fashion at the V&A, said, “Plywood is such a common, everyday material that most people barely notice when it is used. One could say that it has been hidden in plain sight.”

Victoria and Albert Museum, plywood, design, exhibition

Moulded plywood chair designed by Grete Jalk, 1963. Photograph courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum, London

On display will be well-known furniture pieces by Alvar Aalto, Robin Day, Charles and Ray Eames and Grete Jalk, working drawings and a fascinating array of transport designs which include a plywood canoe, a 1960s racing car with a plywood chassis and a number of vintage skateboards.

Victoria and Albert Museum, plywood, design, exhibitionDrawing of Alvar Aalto designed Finnish Pavilion at the New York World’s Fair of 1939-‘40.
Courtesy of Alvar Aalto Museum

An intriguing cluster of sculptural forms designed by Canadian-based company, Patkau Architects will be exhibited outside in the V and A’s John Madejski Garden. Cleverly constructed to withstand freezing temperatures, these plywood ice-skating shelters float on the frozen Winnipeg River and provide a welcome respite from the biting wind. Fixed to a timber frame, their flexible plywood sheets sway and creak with the elements.

Victoria and Albert Museum, plywood, design, exhibitionPatkau Architects, Ice skating shelters, Winnipeg, 2012, Courtesy of Patkau Architects

 

by Miranda Charalambous

Plywood: Material of the Modern World, sponsored by Made.com and supported by the American Friends of the V&A (AFV&A) opens from July 15 – 12 November 12, 2017 in the Porter Gallery at the Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL

Telephone: +44 (0)20 7942 2000

Email: contact@vam.ac.uk

Front page image: Patkau Architects, Ice skating shelters, Winnipeg, 2012, Courtesy of Patkau Architects

 

 

 

 

 

 

WELL-KNOWN for his thickly impastoed portraits of the human body, Lucian Freud painted every bulge, spot and blemish of his subjects with almost forensic observation. Freud’s early work, which is on display at the Pallant House Gallery in Chichester this month, also demonstrates the same scrupulous attention to detail but is surprisingly delicate, precise and decidedly less audacious.

In the new display, three recently acquired works by Freud are shown alongside existing ones from the Gallery’s permanent collection of modern British art and a selection of books featuring drawings and designs accomplished by Freud in the late forties and fifties.

Pallant House Gallery, Lucian Freud, painting

Lucian Freud, Girl with Fig Leaf, 1948, etching on paper, Pallant House Gallery, Chichester. (On Loan from a Private Collection, 2017), Courtesy of The Estate of Lucian Freud. All Rights Reserved 2017/ Bridgeman Images

 During the early part of Freud’s career spiky pot plants, the odd sea urchin and stuffed animal heads were just as much part of his oeuvre as people. Freud admitted he had difficulty engaging sitters on account of staring too hard at his subjects. However, later he clearly utilised this approach to his advantage maintaining that, “the task of the artist is to make the human being uncomfortable.”

The drawing, Girl with Fig Leaf depicts Kitty Garman, Freud’s first wife whom he married in 1948, the same year she bore him a child and he painted the mysterious narrative, Interior Scene.  Freud used props and plants and in particular, thistles for symbolic effect. He admitted that he only painted the view from a window when he was feeling “strained”, which in this case would have been the beautiful landscape of Connemara in Galway. A strangely ominous and prickly portrait, it is perhaps a reflection of Freud’s impending responsibilities as a father.

GDK619751 Interior Scene, 1948 (pastel & Conte crayon on paper) by Freud, Lucian (1922-2011); 57.1x48.2 cm; Private Collection; © The Lucian Freud Archive; PERMISSION REQUIRED TO LICENSE MORE THAN FIVE IMAGES BY THIS ARTIST IN A SINGLE PUBLICATION,REPRODUCTION PERMISSION REQUIRED – EXCEPTIONS APPLY (SEE NOTES); CANNOT BE LICENSED FOR PRINTS OR POSTERS; English, in copyright PLEASE NOTE: This image is protected by artist's copyright which needs to be cleared by you. If you require assistance in clearing permission we will be pleased to help you. In addition, we work with the owner of the image to clear permission. If you wish to reproduce this image, please inform us so we can clear permission for you.Lucian Freud, Interior Scene, 1948, pastel and conté on paper, Pallant House Gallery, Chichester (on Loan from a Private Collection, 2017). Courtesy of The Estate of Lucian Freud. All Rights Reserved 2017/ Bridgeman Images

by Miranda Charalambous

The exhibition, Lucian Freud: Early Works is on until October 1, 2017 at the Pallant House Gallery, 9 North Pallant, Chichester, West Sussex, PO19 1TJ

Telephone: +44 (0) 1243 774557

Email:info@pallant.org.uk

Front page image: Girl with Fig leaf by Lucian Freud, 1948, Etching on paper, Courtesy of The Estate of Lucian Freud

THE LONDON-based artist, Frances Aviva Blane has just published Embassy, her second book which follows the success of Two Faces, an exhibition at the German Ambassador’s Residence in London in which a large selection of her paintings and drawings were included this year. As well as work from the show, the book includes an essay by the leading British artist and printmaker, Tess Jaray about Blane’s work.

Frances Aviva Blane, Embassy, book, artist, abstract expressionistFail. Oil/linen, 90 x 90 cm, Courtesy of Frances Aviva Blane

In her foreward to the book, Jaray describes Blane’s emotive gestures as “painting straight from the heart to the canvas”. Blane draws and paints with alacrity but her work is not random but thoughtfully planned and, as the artist explains, “hard to make”.

Frances Aviva Blane, Embassy, book, artist, abstract expressionistHimmler Court. Acrylic/Charcoal/Khadi, 47 x 47 cm. Courtesy of Frances Aviva Blane

Blane exploits the theatrics of vivid colour as it hits the canvas with her innovative use of paint. Sometimes pink wells up in a rush of emotion and simmers under mascara streaked tears. Yellow gets spiked with black and mingles with wet globs from the tube. Blane also enjoys the limitation of working in one colour, as her big black oils demonstrate. In these, she rips, gouges and scrapes the surface until it seethes like hot tar but in others, she thins the paint to a watery drizzle like rain from heavy dark skies.

 

Frances Aviva Blane, Embassy, book, artist, abstract expressionistSky, [Detail]. Oil/linen, 60 x 60 cm. Courtesy of Frances Aviva Blane

An abstract expressionist artist, Blane works in an unusual way as she also draws figuratively. In these large canvases, the scrawled personalities of Blane’s heads become metaphors in paint as it breaks up. She welcomes the element of surprise as the paint drips and is allowed to take its own course. The effects of these marks can be disturbing, confrontational or plain hectic but some seem otherworldly as they deconstruct, fall and float free.

Frances Aviva Blane, Embassy, book, artist, abstract expressionistDerail. Oil/linen, 198 x 198 cm. Courtesy of Frances Aviva Blane

Frances Aviva Blane, Embassy, book, artist, abstract expressionistFebruary, [Detail]. Oil/linen, 90 x 90, Courtesy of Frances Aviva Blane

Blane is represented by the De Queeste Kunstkamers art gallery in Belgium where her drawings have been exhibited alongside work by Francis Bacon and Louise Bourgeois. Recently, her work was selected by film-maker Jordan Baseman and will be on show at Creekside Open later this year.

by Miranda Charalambous

Front page image: Heart, Oil/linen, 60 x 60 cm. Courtesy of Frances Aviva Blane

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SAVOIR BEDS, British luxury bed designers have partnered with Madeline Weinrib to create a unique masterpiece. The renowned American interior and fabric designer Weinrib is known for her exceptional aesthetics and bold patterns. As an established painter she aims at producing limited, carefully crafted pieces of art that simultaneously enhance and blend in with their surroundings.

savoirbeds_madelineweinrib_lifestyle-2The Harlech 09 – Savoir Beds X Madeline Weinrib

Savoir Beds have remained the leaders of indulgent sophistication in bed making ever since the company’s inception in 1905. The essentially British brand pride themselves on their expertly artisanal production – every step of the process of creation of their frames as well as mattresses is based on hand craftsmanship of their specialists. They became members of Walpole, the UK body that promotes British luxury brands

savoirbeds_madelineweinrib_lifestyle-1The Harlech 09 – Savoir Beds X Madeline Weinrib

The collaboration of such expert creators has resulted in an exceptional product. The Harlech 09 consists of a grand headboard which has been upholstered in Weinrib’s Bara Black & Hazelnut fabric. Coupled with the understated dark frame and a lower slim base, the new design is both modern and classic.

by Magda McCrimmon

The Harlech 09 can be recreated with the help of Savoir’s showroom teams. Full details are available on their website

A DOZEN wooden eggs, stunningly decorated by 12 contemporary British artists are to be auctioned at the end of this month. British-based art gallery and online retailer, CultureLabel has teamed up with The British Hen Welfare Trust (BHWT) to launch The Egg Masterpiece Auction in order to raise funds and awareness for the plight of battery hens. The sale of each artist-designed egg will contribute towards establishing a new BHWT Welfare and Education Centre in Devon. The Trust’s founder, Jane Howorth MBE said, “We are blown away by Culture Label’s offer to raise money for us by auctioning off what we’re sure will be incredible, unique pieces of art.”

Culture Label, The British Hen Welfare Trust, Egg Masterpiece AuctionEgg Masterpiece by David Shillinglaw. Courtesy of Culture Label

Since 2005, BHWT has rescued and rehabilitated over 500,000 commercial laying hens. Jane Howorth initiated the Charity after watching a BBC Panorama documentary, in 1977 which highlighted the dire conditions within battery cages. Public interest in the concerns surrounding battery farming grew after BHWT featured in the Channel Four programme, Jamie’s Fowl Dinners and the BBC documentary, The Private Life of Chickens.

Culture Label, The British Hen Welfare Trust, Egg Masterpiece AuctionEgg Masterpiece by Mr Doodle. Courtesy of Culture Label

Either quasi-religious, stippled with paint or doodled to perfection, Egg Masterpieces have proved to be wonderfully original. Some artists certainly travel that extra mile for their inspiration, like Mark Adlington who journeyed to the Arctic in search of polar bears.

Culture Label, The British Hen Welfare Trust, Egg Masterpiece AuctionEgg Masterpiece by Mark Adlington. Courtesy of Culture Label

Egg decorating is certainly tricky, even for an Egg Masterpiece expert, as London-based artist Steven Quinn explains,“I think I somewhat underestimated the geometry involved but I got there in the end!”

Street artist, David Shillinglaw experimented with various ideas but settled eventually for one of his classic designs, a bandit wearing a bandana. He maintains, “The inspiration of the design was the shape of the egg itself, because it’s quite difficult shape; you can’t paint everything you’d want to paint on that surface.”

 

Culture Label, The British Hen Welfare Trust, Egg Masterpiece Auction

Prolate Spherical, Egg Masterpiece by Steven Quinn. Courtesy of Culture Label

by Miranda Charalambous

The Egg Masterpiece Auction is on until April 30 2017. For more information, please visit the Culture Label site

For more information about selling your products on CultureLabel:
Telephone: 020 7908 1615
Email: felicity.souter@culturelabel.com

Front page image: Out of the Darkness, Egg Masterpiece by Louise McNaught, Courtesy of CultureLabel

AN UNUSUAL relationship between the Renaissance master, Michelangelo and lesser known Venetian artist, Sebastiano del Piombo is the focus of a new exhibition at The National Gallery in London. The show, which opens this spring, endeavours to gain greater recognition for Sebastiano whose talents have been largely overshadowed by his association with Michelangelo but whose work was highly regarded by 19th century collectors.

Their creative partnership, which is evidenced through paintings, sculptures and working drawings, took place during a time of great political upheaval, heated theological debate and in powerful opposition to their artistic rival, Raphael. Central to the show are Michelangelo and Sebastiano’s remarkable collection of original letters, which disclose the intriguing details of their professional and personal life and whose writing styles reveal much about the artists’ respective personalities.

The National Gallery, Michelangelo, Sebastiano, painting, sculpture, drawing, lettersThe Visitation by Sebastiano del Piombo, 1518-19, Musée du Louvre, Département des Peintures, Paris, Courtesy of RMN-Grand Palais (musée du Louvre) / Hervé Lewandowski

Michelangelo’s controversial sculpture, The Risen Christ, condemned by the biographer Romain Rolland to be “the coldest and dullest thing he ever did”, although much-admired by the artist’s contemporaries, is displayed for the first time in contrast with a plaster cast from his second version. The exhibition also presents a rare opportunity to view Sebastiano’s work, the Lamentation over the Dead Christ, also known as Viterbo Pietà which marks the beginning of the artists’ collaboration.

The National Gallery, Michelangelo, Sebastiano, painting, sculpture, drawing, lettersChrist carrying the Cross by Sebastiano del Piombo, c.1513-14.
Courtesy of Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid

Sebastiano, who was ten years younger than Michelangelo, was born in Venice 1485. The artists first met in Rome while Michelangelo was just completing  work on the Sistine Chapel ceiling.  Sebastiano, a talented oil painter was an ideal partner for Michelangelo who was eager to undermine the success of his rival, Raphael.

After their initial success with Viterbo Pietà, the artists collaborated on two other major projects, the decoration of the Borgherini Chapel in S. Pietro and the Raising of Lazarus which was created in fierce opposition to Raphael’s Transformation for the Cathedral of Norbonne in France. However, their friendship ended acrimoniously when Sebastiano tried to force Michelangelo to paint the Last Judgement for the Sistine Chapel in oils rather than his preferred medium of fresco.

The National Gallery, Michelangelo, Sebastiano, painting, sculpture, drawing, lettersLamentation over the Dead Christ by Sebastiano del Piombo, c.1512-16,
Museo Civico, Viterbo. Courtesy of Comune di Viterbo

by Miranda Charalambous

The Credit Suisse exhibition, Michelangelo & Sebastiano opens from 15 March to 25 June 2017 at The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DN.

Email: information@ng-london.org.uk

Telephone: +44 (0)20 7747 2885

Front page image: The Visitation by Sebastiano del Piombo, 1518-19, Musée du Louvre, Département des Peintures, Paris, Courtesy of RMN-Grand Palais (musée du Louvre) / Hervé Lewandowski

SAMUJI, the Finnish design studio and creative house, has released their lookbook for its upcoming AW17 collection that seamlessly links the house’s signature minimalist aesthetics and architecturally sculpted silhouettes with those of old-school rock glamour.

Samuji FW17Italy coat black blue Samuji AW17

Drawing inspiration from nature, brand founder Samu-Jussi Koski has created a collection in his signature colour palette of whites, greys, blacks and navy with the occasional splash of more vivid hues – in this collection being greens and silver.

Samuji FW17Nami jacket silver Samuji AW17

The brand is known for its unparalleled focus on fabrics which aligns with its commitment to ensuring quality and sustainability of the entirety of their design process. The new collection is no different and features responsibly sourced cotton, silk, alpaca, virgin wool and velvet all tailored to elevate their natural potential.

Samuji FW17Najya trousers Samuji AW17

As always the needs of his audience remains central to Koski and he has taken two strong women, both of whom redefined their respective fields – furniture designer and architect Eileen Grey and Madonna – to shape his proposition for next AW season as one of functional elegance with attitude.

Samuji FW17Roxan dress black dark navy Samuji AW17

The silhouettes are therefore a comfortable and empowering statement for everyday use as well as special – occasion dressing. Oversized yet fitted outerwear, pretty silk dresses, velvet flares and full length skirts have been styled with trendy sheepskin mules. There is also an abundance of classic separates and mini lengths paired with utilitarian boots as well as Samuji signature hats – their newest incarnation being oversized beanies and edgy berets.

Samuji FW17Italy coat black blue Samuji AW17

by Magda McCrimmon

Samuji is on instagram

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