Archives for Central Saint Martins

The V&A Presents Fashion In Motion: Phoebe English

LUXURY BRITISH, women’s and menswear label Phoebe English will be the next designer to feature in Fashion In Motion, this October at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Fashion In Motion will highlight the precise beauty of six years of Phoebe English’s collections. Made in England, the Phoebe English, label deploys lost and rarely used garment construction and fabrication techniques, embodying the mark of the maker.

pe1Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

The fashion collections will be centred within set designs, produced to capture the imagination and involve the viewer, setting the label apart from trend led, mass-made fashion design. The collections are aimed toward a balance between design and craft. A pop up shop of selected garments, specially crafted pieces for the V&A and unique exclusive works to be sold at V&A promotional prices will feature as part of the show.

English says, “Taking part in Fashion in Motion has a particular significance to me, as the V&A was the museum in which I decided to follow my interest in fashion. It is the building where my love for clothing and design were contextualised into a tangible practice and pathway”

After debuting her first fashion collection and graduating from Central Saint Martins with an MA from their Fashion Programme, English won several awards including L’Oréal’s Professional Creative Award, the Chloe Award and the Ungaro bursary. This collection was also picked up by luxury fashion shop, Dover Street Market London.

pe3Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

In 2013, The Centre for Fashion Enterprise awarded English a mentoring and sponsorship as part of the coveted Venture Programme. And two years later, Forbes listed English in the 30 under 30, influential Art and Style category and her menswear line, Phoebe English MAN, was awarded the NEWGEN Award by the British Fashion Council.

Inspiring designers, students and researchers, the V&A  is home to some of the UK’s biggest national, fashion collections along with unique and comprehensive collections of world fashion spanning the last four centuries.

V&A fashion curator, Oriole Cullen says, “Phoebe English is a designer for whom the presentation of her work is an integral part of her design process. For each of her collections she creates intriguing and beautiful scenarios in which to showcase her designs. We are delighted to have the opportunity to work with Phoebe as part of the V&A Fashion in Motion programme, particularly as she has previously used the Museum as a source of inspiration for her collections”

pe2Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

Catwalk shows from leading, international fashion designers bring their collections to V&A Fashion In Motion, to show fashion garments moving and animated, as they should be seen. Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacriox are some of the designers previously showcased at the museum.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Featured Image: Phoebe English, Autumn Winter 17 Presentation, photo: Polly Brown.

Fashion In Motion: Phoebe English opens October 20. Tickets are available online. Admission is free.
The exhibition will be shown in the Raphael Gallery, Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London, SW7 2RL

 

H&M Announces Winner of 2017 Design Award

H&M have announced Central Saint Martin’s graduate Richard Quinn the recipient of its 2017 Design Award. A panel of industry experts, which among others included Ann-Sofie Johansson and Margareta van den Bosch, the brand’s creative advisors, as well as Hannah Jinkins, winner of last year’s award and Business of Fashion’s Imran Amed selected British-born Quinn from a group of eight international finalists – which included three fellow Britons along with young creatives from America, Korea, Israel and France.

richard-quinn-3
H&M Design Award 2017 Winner Richard Quinn

Quinn will receive €50 000, as well as a year-long mentorship from H&M which gives him the chance to develop his winning collection alongside industry professionals, which will then be sold as part of the label’s new collection next year.

richard-quinn-2
A look from Richard Quinn’s winning collection

The H&M Design Award was founded in 2012, with the objective of seeking out and nurturing emerging young talents, with the ultimate intention of helping them to establish a career.

richard-quinn-1
Another look from Richard Quinn’s winning collection

by Hannah Bergin

Husband and Wife Design-Duo Longshaw Ward Found Brand

LONGSHAW Ward is the eclectic, vibrant and thoroughly modern new womenswear and accessories label founded by husband-and-wife duo Kirsty Ward and David Longshaw. Central Saint Martins alumni who first met in Italy while working for Alberta Ferretti’s design studio, both Kirsty and David are celebrated designers in their own right who have, up until now, received international acclaim from their individual eponymous labels – pieces of which have featured in  Vogue, Elle, Grazia and Nylon to name but a few.

lw-6Longshaw Ward SS17 © Longshaw Ward

Prospects for the pair’s collaborative enterprise – which benefits from their combined expertise and design experience, and which reflects their idiosyncrasies, individual characters and sartorial specialties – certainly look promising therefore.

The brand’s aesthetic is contemporary, the basis for which is the juxtaposition between a masculine silhouette and the more feminine draping of fabric, throughout which David’s distinctly illustrative style, with hand-drawn-like lines and shapes features heavily – the fluidity and spontaneity of which contrasts with the structured, somewhat industrial statement jewellery that has always been at the forefront of Kirsty’s brand.

lw-4
Longshaw Ward SS17 © Longshaw Ward

For their debut SS17 collection, the couple returned to Central Saint Martins where they rifled through library materials in search of inspiration for the season. Vogue archives from the 30s and 40s – in which peplum and nipped-in waists featured heavily – in addition to the artworks of Salvador Dali and Thomas Vach, as well as Vicent Darre’s Alice-in-Wonderland-like interiors determined the starting point for their design process.

The distortion of shapes, lines and the creation of unusual silhouettes thus became the defining element of the collection. The asymmetric profile, created from the layering of voluminous fabrics, is exaggerated by the overlaying of materials – crepe, neoprene and denim – cut into irregular shapes, which protrude from the garments and create futuristic forms.

The result is almost surrealist, enhanced by the clashing of colours and contrasting of textures. Beads and sequins feature alongside denim items overlayed with netting and gold stitch detailing. Print adorned with flora and fauna contrast with block reds and oranges as well as grey, blacks and whites. The mood is youthful, playful and animated.

Jewellery is likewise striking –aluminum wire and gold paracord buckles contrast with silk ties and floral detail crafted from Swarovski crystals, which add a touch of delicacy and slight daintiness to the pieces, without reducing their impact.

 

lw-5
Longshaw Ward SS17 © Longshaw Ward

Every item from Longshaw and Ward’s collection is hand-crafted in the couple’s London studio, allowing the designers to exhibit their craftsmanship, fully explore their art and further develop their vision for the brand.

The Purpose of It recently interviewed David, and received an exclusive insight into the pair’s musings and creative process.

What defines the Longshaw Ward brand? What makes the label’s aesthetic unique in today’s global fashion market?
The global market is over crowded with generic over produced product that has been churned out by big labels in a desperate attempt to stop ailing sales, made in cheap factories pretending to be high end. Longshaw Ward is made and designed in England with fun and passion. We pattern cut and sample everything in our London studio keep the process creative. The prints are all hand illustrated by us and digitally printed in England.

Do you have any particular muses? Do you design with a particular woman in mind?
We don’t design with one person in mind – she’s not an age, a face, a body, she’s more of an idea. She likes to have fun with fashion, doesn’t take herself too seriously, she’s interested in what’s going on in the world and appreciates fine design and luxury details. She wants to wear something unique and appreciates that all our pieces are designed and made in the UK.

 

lw-3
Longshaw Ward SS17 © Longshaw Ward

Do you have any brands or designers that you particularly admire or that have inspired your own work in any way?
There are lots of brands and designers we admire. We try not to be too influenced by any particular brand – we want to forge our own path and create our own unique style – but we do love the work of Miuccia Prada, Nicolas Ghesquiere and are excited to see what Raf does at Calvin Klein.

Your studio is based in London – does working in the British capital have an impact upon your work? Do you derive inspiration from London life, culture and style?
Though we weren’t born in London it feels like home – particularly creatively. We both studied fashion design in London, Kirsty went to Central Saint Martins for her MA whereas I got my BA there, going on to the  Royal College of Art for my MA. We met designing for Alberta Ferretti in Italy –  then returned to England to start our own labels – now based in London. From the people, to the galleries and theatre, to the amazing architecture London is constantly inspiring.

lw-2
Longshaw Ward SS17 © Longshaw Ward

This is you and Kirsty’s first collaborative collection – in what ways has the transition from a solo to a joint enterprise been a challenge for you? And in what ways has it been rewarding?
At first Kirsty was a little bossy but she’s chilled out now and it is brilliant to work together. So much more fun than when we worked separately and quicker – the collection was ready and photographer a month and a half early. And we feel that Longshaw Ward is stronger creatively and commercially and with more potential than either of our past labels.

This may be a little personal but, how do you and Kirsty make the professional partnership work? How do you discuss ideas, deliberate and come to make decisions for the brand as a pair?
We work on everything together   from designing the concept, to selecting the fabrics, to the designing the jewellery and designing the prints.

 

lw-1
Longshaw Ward SS17 © Longshaw Ward

Are you able to give us an insight into what the future holds for the brand? Where do you hope to be in five years or so?
The future is exciting – the industry is changing rapidly, but we want to continue to grow and continue to have fun with what we are doing. There are a lot of very stressed, and confused people in the fashion industry, scared of the future, fashion is supposed to be enjoyable and creative, other wise it’s just about creating generic uniforms for the masses and becomes a pointless task.

by Hannah Bergin

For more information, contact press@longshawward.com or david@longshawward.com

Instagram:@longshawward
Twitter: @longshawward