Archives for fashion

Chanel Drops Chapter 17 of its Inside Chanel Film Series

CHANEL has released the 17th chapter of Inside Chanel – a series of short films created by the company which tell the story of the characters, places, motifs and creations at the heart of the brand’s identity.

The life of its legendary founder Coco Chanel inevitably constitutes a large part of the unique online project, as does Paris – the infinitely-inspiring city where she established her first modest millinery store, where she continued to design throughout her life, and from where the brand still operates today. The project also explores the enduring legacy of some of Chanel’s most iconic products; namely its No. 5 fragrance – the first perfume ever created by a couturier, as well as the jacket – the epitome of the androgynous, nonchalant female elegance which embodied Chanel’s principles and came to define the brand’s revolutionary aesthetic.

chanel-paradoxes

Chapter 17: The Paradoxes © Chanel

Inside Chanel also unveils the significance behind a number of symbols which were of great importance to the designer, many of which are subtly incorporated into her designs. The lion is one such symbol, representative of Leo the star sign under which she was born, which featured on many Chanel accessories as well as on the buttons of tweed suits.

Chapter 17: The Paradoxes, explores the many oxymora that pervade the Chanel label – the creation of a new femininity from a traditionally masculine aesthetic, the excessive layering of jewellery atop the simplest of dresses, the balancing of both practicality and elegance, the embracing of both black and white at once.

The video follows on from the brand’s recent No. 5 L’EAU campaign which adopted the slogan “you know me and you don’t” – indeed an allusion to the label’s inherent paradoxes and an apt campaign for the newest iteration of the house’s oldest perfume, which highlights how Chanel continues to delight and surprise whilst keeping tradition and history at the forefront of the brand.

Watch The Paradoxes online here

by Hannah Bergin

Atlas Gallery Reveal New Surrealist Photography Show

THE Atlas Gallery in London unleashes the creative power of the unconscious in a new show which explores how avant-garde photographers responded to Surrealism. The exhibition, which opens this week, traces the history of the iconic movement through five decades beginning with its launch in Paris in the 1920s by poet, André Breton.

The Psychic Lens: Surrealism and the camera displays almost 50 works by well-known photographers which include Man Ray, Florence Henri and Bill Brandt and work by lesser known artists such as Franz Roh and Vaclav Zykmund. Their work also reveals a diverse range of skills comprising photo-montage, double exposures, solarisation and combination printing.

Atlas Gallery, Surrealism, photography, exhibitionVisit in Night, 1951 © Toshiko Okanoue

The Surrealists sought to uncover the unconscious mind and merge it with reality. They created dream-like imagery by lifting objects from their familiar contexts and re-positioning them in unlikely groupings. The Japanese photographer, Toshiko Okanoue, started making photo collages as a fashion student at Bunk Gakim College during the 1950s. After the Second World War, Japanese goods were in short supply and many were imported from abroad.

Cutting scraps from fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, Okanoue began to create imaginative compositions arranged from body parts, animals and architectural elements. Although having no knowledge of Surrealism at the time, she realised later that, “Without being aware of it, I have planned such delicate nuances of a woman’s heart and sown seeds of such sentiments into my works.”

Atlas Gallery, Surrealism, photography, exhibitionPortrait Composition (E), 1937 by Florence Henri © Galleria Martini & Ronchetti, Genova

Influenced by Constructivism and Cubism, the American artist Florence Henri experimented with mirrors to add greater perspective to her imagery. She overlaid reflections in shop windows and made photo-montages from photographic clippings of classical architecture. She explained

“Volumes, lines, shadows and light have to obey my will and say what I want them to say. This happens under the strict control of composition, since I do not pretend to explain the world nor to explain my thoughts.”

Apart from distorting perspective and the size of objects, Surrealist photographers sometimes used words in their imagery. The German magazine cover designed by Dutch photographer, César Domela-Niewenhuis depicts a giant signpost of painted text looming above the sprawling Port of Hamburg to reveal a cluttered scene of cranes, building and steamships parts.

Atlas Gallery, Surrealism, photography, exhibitionHamburg, 1929 by César Domela-Niewenhuis © 2014 César Domela/
Artists RightsSociety (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris

by Miranda Charalambous

The exhibition, The Psychic Lens: Surrealism and the camera runs from November 24 to January 28, 2017 at Atlas Gallery, 49 Dorset Street, Marylebone, London W1U 7NF
Telephone: +44 207 224 4192
Email: info@atlasgallery.com

Front page image: Ruths-Speicher, photomontage, 1928 by César Domela-Niewenhuis © 2014 César

Domela/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris

ESMOD Berlin Holds 2016 Graduate Show and Awards Event

THE ANNUAL graduation event held by fashion and design university Esmod took place last week at the imposing former industrial hall Loewe Saal with the occasion introducing 52 new designer alumni to the fashion world.

The BA Graduation Show DSRPTN – a bespoke abbreviation for disruption – is a celebration of the emerging talent anticipated to shape the future of the industry. The day traditionally attracts substantial crowds and revolves around two main fashion shows – the afternoon one accessible to all and members of the public and the evening event being an exclusive affair including an award ceremony.

The evening event saw an elite international jury made up of industry professionals assessing top 21 collections of ESMOD graduates. Responsible for granting accolades in three categories the 2016 jury comprised of: Herbert Hofmann, Creative Director and Buyer, VOO Store; Clare Langhammer, Owner and Founder, Fake PR;
 Nicolás Santos, Art Director, Interview Magazine;
 Toby Grimditch, Fashion Director, DANSK Magazine; Iris Krüger, Creative Pattern Cutter, Stella McCartney; Andrei Amado, Designer Women’s Wear, Salvatore Ferragamo; Lilly Heine, Textile development, CÉLINE;
Tomas C Toth, Stylist; 
Marlis Zeitler, ESMOD Paris;
 Felix Chabluk Smith, Designer Women’s Wear, Paris; 
Yvonne Laufer, Designer Women’s Wear, Paris.

The judges have evaluated the main collections rich in colours, unique forms, brilliant prints and innovative silhouettes.

The illustrious Prix Createur for the most outstanding collection was awarded to Gina Laumanns.

Graduate student GINA LAUMANNS presenting her collection in the evening show before the International Jury at the DSRPTN - ESMOD Berlin Bachelor Graduate Shows 2016 at Loewe Saal, on 22nd October 2016 in Berlin - (C) ESMOD Berlin / Michael WittigGina Laumanns. Photograph: ESMOD Berlin/Michael Wittig

The Prix du Jury (Jury Prize) was presented to Anina May.

Graduate student AMINA MAYR presenting her collection in the evening show before the International Jury at the DSRPTN - ESMOD Berlin Bachelor Graduate Shows 2016 at Loewe Saal, on 22nd October 2016 in Berlin - (C) ESMOD Berlin / Michael WittigAmina May. Photograph: ESMOD Berlin/Michael Wittig

Finally the Aigulle D’or (The Golden Needle – a symbol of great achievement) was awarded to Max Rabe.

 

Graduate student MAX RABE presenting his collection in the evening show before the International Jury at the DSRPTN - ESMOD Berlin Bachelor Graduate Shows 2016 at Loewe Saal, on 22nd October 2016 in Berlin - (C) ESMOD Berlin / Michael WittigMax Rabe. Photograph: ESMOD Berlin/Michael Wittig

by Magda Pirowska

ESMOD Berlin Presents 2016 Graduate Fashion Show

ESMOD Berlin, an International University of Arts and Fashion, presents their 2016 graduate fashion show. Designers and fashion professionals graduating from their prestigious bachelor programme will show their final works during an event this week.

sonjalitichevskaya2-esmod-berlinA look from Sonja Litchevskaya graduate collection

The event will follow through the shows of 31 designers hailing from 16 countries. The attendees will also have the opportunity to explore the industry – relevant topics examined and developed by other graduates of the programme, all revolving around the notions of sustainability and the future of fashion.

5-1ginalaumanns-esmod-berlin

From Gina Laumann’s graduate collection. Photo by Alexander Nagi

 

ada%c2%a8le-pillichody9-esmod-erlinFrom Adele Pillichody graduate collection. Photo by Roland Kunos

by Magda Pirowska

The graduate shows take place on October 22 in Loewe Saal, Berlin.
The show starts at 4pm with the doors opening at 3pm for the audience.

Swiss Watchmakers Jaeger-LeCoultre collaborate with Christian Louboutin

LUXURY watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre have teamed up with Christian Louboutin for an exclusive collaboration. The range celebrating the 85th anniversary of the creation of one of their most iconic designs – The Revero is being exclusively showcased at Harrod’s Fine Watch Room.

jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-creation-by-christian-louboutin_-applicolle-mir-1Jaeger-LeCoultre creation by Christian Louboutin with Mirror dial

 

The pieces combine the expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre craftsmen who have created a traditionally elegant timers, with Louboutin’s flair for understated luxury which is evident in the matched straps. Aptly named ‘The Loopi – Loop and Officer Straps’ due to their circularly – inspired features, they accentuate the ultra – feminine Reverso with their rich colours and intricate detail.

 

jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-creation-by-christian-louboutin_-applicolle-mir-2Jaeger-LeCoultre creation by Christian Louboutin with Mirror dial

by Magda Pirowska

The full collection is in-store now and orders can be made from now up until end of October exclusively in Harrods Fine Watch Room. The two featured styles are exclusive to Harrods however there are many more styles in the range.

Miu Miu CustoMIUzation Project Opens in London

MIU MIU have announced the launch of their original CustoMIUzation project. For a limited time only, the customers at Miu Miu, in the New Bond Street store, will be able to personalise their bags with a selected rage of exclusively designed patches.

 

The brand has designated a selection of madras leather and denim bags to be decorated with patches that include motifs based on latest AW16 ready-to-wear collection, as well as some designed especially for the occasion.  A total of 12 unique, heat-sealed badges are available embodying Miu Miu’s playful aesthetic evident in the signature stars  – as well as slogans such as Love, Kiss and Forever.

A dedicated Italian artisan has been scheduled to assist the customers with their CustoMIUzation designs over an approximate period of 30 minutes which are needed to customise each bag.

by Magda Pirowska

The CustoMIUzation Project is available at Miu Miu, New Bond Street, London from September 16

London Ethnic Celebrates the Capital’s Talent during London Fashion Week

LONDON-based fashion label and marketing agency, London Ethnic has announced its London Fashion Week event. A celebration of the capital’s design talent, the London Ethnic’s party will once again take place during the most important fashion event in the capital. Participating labels include Urban Rots Eco, Louise Coleman and Amelia as well as other rising stars on London’s fashion scene.

 

london-ethnic-ss15-showBackstage at London Ethnic’s LFW SS15 event, September 2014 at Kensington Roof Gardens

 

The event is a combination of catwalk shows and an opportunity to meet like-minded industry professionals, designers and other creatives.

london-ethnic-helen-grahamLondon Ethnic Event for Fashion Revolution Day, April 2014

This year the showcase will be hosted by  Chelsea club Vaudeville on Friday, 16 September. The early reception starts at 6.30pm and the event will continue throughout the evening until late with an after-party until 2.30am featuring DJ Andy Purnell.

by Magda Pirowska

Tickets are available now from emergingdesignersshowcaseforlfw.eventbrite.co.uk
Please use the voucher code: LondonEthnic16S16 for 50 per cent off the price of tickets (limited availability). The tickets cost £15-£50.

Chanel Releases Teasers for its N°5 L’Eau Campaign

CHANEL presents the inaugural clips of their campaign for the new scent N°5 L’Eau. Starring Lily-Rose Depp, the short film highlights the discord between the familiar and unanticipated.

Rose-Depp ultimately portrays herself personifying the very essence of Chanel’s latest fragrance – the surprising reinvention of the classic. The campaign’s central slogan – #YOUKNOWMEANDYOUDONT – represents the core sentiments of alluring dualisms on which it is built.

The post-modernistic view where the established status quo is challenged by the rebellious individualism is perfectly captured in these intriguing films created by one of the most talented modern directors of short films – Johan Renck.

Renck unearths the full potential of an icon who breaks their own rules, infiltrating the enigma of an ever evolving symbol – both traditional and always on-trend.

by Magda Pirowska

For more, please visit  here.

Miu Miu Presents the Latest Short Film in its Women’s Tales Series

MIU MIU has released the 12th short film commissioned for their Women’s Tales project – a unique collaboration between the esteemed fashion house and up-and-coming film directors which celebrates femininity in the 21st century.

 

That One Day by Crystal Moselle_ph.BrigitteLacombe_13Brigitte Lacombe for Miu Miu

The latest film, That One Day, tells a story of a young girl on a journey of self-discovery in, and out-of, traditionally male-dominated environments. The protagonist is a teenage New Yorker, Rachelle, a keen skateboarder who is, initially, faced with sexism and intimidation.

The film follows Rachelle’s chance meeting with a group of like-minded girls with whom she finds a sense of belonging and is inspired by the strength of female friendship she discovers there. That One Day sees her finding a new direction one which potentially defines her future.

 

That One Day by Crystal Moselle_ph.BrigitteLacombe_02-1Brigitte Lacombe for Miu Miu

This poignant piece is directed by American Crystal Moselle, an artist known to her audience for her emotive short films which passionately explore subjects such as everyday struggles and wider issues affecting society. Moselle frequently focuses on odds-defying individuals, who are real-life superheroes drawing on their inner strength.

 

That One Day by Crystal Moselle_ph.BrigitteLacombe_03-1Brigitte Lacombe for Miu Miu

That One Day premiered this month along with a screening of Naomi Kawase’s Seed, at the Venice Film Festival’s Giornate degli Autori-Venice Days program. It is now available alongside previous films on a dedicated area of the Miu Miu website.

by Magda Pirowska

Luxury Knitwear Brand Delam Introduces First Collection

RECENT addition to the world of luxury knitwear, Delam stands out of the crowd due to its uniqueness. Founded by Lili Di Michele, the brand focuses on two qualities striving to make them its signature – high quality and timeless design.

Delam Yasi maxi sweaterA Delam Yasi long-sleeved shawl

The brand is ultimately a product of two countries – Italy and ancient Persia – as it combines the finest quality materials sourced from the former with the traditional manufacturing methods of the latter to arrive at its final striking results.

Delam Parvin sweaterA Delam Parvin sweater

Owner and designer of the brand, Di Michele has drawn her inspiration from the conventional Persian textiles – especially tribal rugs called Gabbeh. Their rich texture and vibrant colours have inspired her to explore the ancient hand – dying art of the Persian nomadic women. Her travels to the modern-day Iran have deepened her passion for the unique woven techniques and organic, local production and the idea of Delam, meaning “my heart” in old Persian, was born.

Delam Mitra sweaterDelam Mitra sweater

The brand uses the finest Italian cashmere yarns, which in its basic untreated form travel to Southern Iran to be then hand-dyed by specialist craftsmen. The dyes used to treat yarns are derived form local plants and roots, such as pomegranate skin and walnut husks, and made according to ancient recipes that have been developed and improved over the centuries. This organic process ensures that the resulting colours are entirely natural as well intricately inconsistent lending the materials their signature individuality. In the words of the designers, “Each piece is as unique as the person wearing it.”

Delam Tala sweaterDelam Tala sweater

The pieces take their final shape back in Italy where they are knitted into their elegant and timeless designs. Due to their highest quality and classic patterns Delam knitwear fits perfectly with the recent worldwide trend taking the dressing habits of sophisticated men and women by storm – wardrobing – pieces that withstand constant wear and last for generations.

Delam Roya SweaterDelam Roya sweater

Delam knitwear is available online via their website website as well as in flagship store in west London.

by Magda Pirowska