Archives for LFW

Fashion Scout Opens Showcase Applications for LFW AW18

INTERNATIONAL and UK designers are now invited to apply to the largest independent fashion showcase, Fashion Scout LFW AW18. Taking place during London Fashion Week, the showcase is open to emerging, established an international creative talent.

Following the success of the designs at the most recent Fashion Scout LFW SS18, it’s a good time to reflect on backstage style and creativity. A total of 38 catwalk looks were composed for each of the inspiring collections, with hair and makeup looks created by official sponsors, Toni & Guy (hair) and Kryolan (makeup). The bold styles feature fierce, teased hair and block coloured eyeshadow.

imlfw1Toni & Guy, Elephantasia, photo by Rory James, 2017

Billie Jacobina and EDDA (Edda Gimnes), winners of the SS18 Merit Awards, present their collections with backstage videos. Fashion Illustration course leader at the London College of Fashion, Sue Dray featured as artist in residence at the showcase. Dray created multiple, live drawings for each show, from the designer’s catwalk collections.

im2lfwRocky Star, photo by Nicholas Kristiansen, 2017

The showcase will also include an interview with Indian designer, Rocky Star. His SS18 collection displaying vibrant colours and animal prints, combined with classic silhouettes. The interview will focus on his thoughts on the show and the inspiration for his works.

im3lfwAn image by artist Sue Dray. Photograph: Stephan, 2017

by Pierra George-Robertson

Front Page Image: Kryolan, Leaf Xia, photograph by Rory James

See a selection of short films, backstage videos  and full shows from Fashion Scout SS18 here

London Fashion Week 2018 takes place from February 16-20
Tickets for London Fashion Week 2018 are available here

Charity Fashion Live to Feature at London Fashion Week

DURING LFW AW17  fashion stylist Emma Slade Edmondson will style a rather different kind of runway show during the upcoming London Fashion Week – one entitled Charity Fashion Live.

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A look from last year’s Charity Fashion Live 2016 event

As next season’s trends emerge on the AW17 catwalks, Emma and her team will immediately replicate the designer looks using charity shop clothing, using only what is available in the store at the time. The objective of the show is to display the incredible variety of garments available in charity shops and to demonstrate how, with a little creativity, fashion need be neither expensive nor high-end to be beautiful – something that last year’s event certainly proved.

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A look from last year’s Charity Fashion Live 2016 event

A short video will later be released showcasing all of Emma’s looks on the runway as well as providing a glimpse of backstage action.

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Pieces from last year’s Charity Fashion Live 2016

by Hannah Bergin

Charity Fashion Live takes place on February 18 during LFW.

New LFW Venue and London Fashion Week Festival Announced

THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL have announced they will be moving their biannual events to a new home. The move will see all three – London Fashion Week, the newly renamed London Fashion Week Men’s and London Fashion Week Festival – united under one roof of the The Store Studios, located at 180 Strand in central London.

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Ashish SS17 (Nigel Pacquette, British Fashion Council)

Commenting on the announcement,  top decision makers from the mayoral office, the BFC as well as The Store Studios themselves have stressed London’s importance as one of the top fashion capitals of the world and how the upcoming change will serve to reinforce it as such. They believe hosting all three events in one location will strengthen their impact through establishing one venue.

Furthermore, the decision to transform the London Fashion Weekend into London Fashion Week Festival and prolonging its duration will aid the BFC in their mission to engage with the wider public through this ticketed event that gives them access to shows and high fashion usually reserved to industry professionals.

by Magda Pirowska

Tickets for the first London Fashion Week Festival at The Store Studios are on sale now here

Front page image: looks from BFC NEWGEN winner Molly Goddard’s recent collection

Leanne Claxton Launches SS17 Collection

ARTIST Leanne Claxton inhabits the space between fashion and art, translating intricate oil paintings into stunning digital prints which are then transferred onto silk and cashmere scarves. A lover of the outdoors, Claxton derives endless inspiration from the natural world – her SS17 collection influenced by the works of late American artist Georgia O’Keefe in particular, who likewise urged her contemporaries to appreciate the beauty of the flora surrounding us, which all too often goes unnoticed. Beyond this, Claxton explores how significant flora and fauna are to our memories of, and associations with, certain places, times or even events.

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The Ruben print from the SS17 Collection © Leanne Claxton

The Art of Flowers collection is both vibrant and wistful. Bright prints evoke the exoticism of far-flung corners of the world – such as the electric Malay design which recreates the patterns found on the butterfly wings and bird species of Asia, whilst more neutral, earthy and somewhat melancholic designs reflect the artist’s longing for her homeland, England or induce nostalgia for summers spent abroad in Spain, where wild meadows are left to grow.

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The Malay print from the SS17 Collection © Leanne Claxton

The SS17 collection began, as have all of Claxton’s previously, with a series of detailed graphite sketches which are then re-interpreted as oil paintings, transformed into digital patterns and finally transferred onto fine fabrics, at which point they become highly intricate and entirely wearable pieces of art.

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The Coco print from the SS17 Collection © Leanne Claxton

 

Having grown up in Lancashire, Claxton moved to London in 2002 to undertake a BA degree in textile design at Central Saint Martins. After graduating, she trained in Paris under Christian Lacroix and has since worked both in-house and as a freelance print designer for a number of highly-acclaimed brands across Europe, as well as in Hong Kong and New York. In 2015, she set up her eponymous art and print studio back in Lancashire – a studio which continues to flourish – and where she freely exercises her creativity and explores her craftsmanship.

A credit to her multidisciplinary expertise, Claxton flows effortlessly from paper to canvas to computer screen to fabric, moving seamlessly between the physical and digital worlds to create truly spectacular and thoroughly unique pieces.

 

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The Malay print from the SS17 Collection © Leanne Claxton

by Hannah Bergin

The collection is  stocked by
Coco Boutique: 3/7 Wayfarers Arcade Southport Merseyside PR8 1NT. 01704 513393.
Competitive Edge: 31 Burscough St Ormskirk L39 2EG. 01695 578778.
It is also available online from her site and The Clothing Lounge, Silkfred  and NJAL.
Prices range from £68 – £148.

Versace Dreams the Vibes of Chicago – Film by Bruce Weber

VERSACE launch their FW16 collection with Chicago Is My beat, a grainy black-and-white film shot by Bruce Weber starring supermodels, Gigi Hadid and Karlie Kloss. The collaboration rekindles a time-honoured relationship between the flamboyant fashion brand and Weber, a fashion photographer renowned for his unrivaled productions both for Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.

Chicago Is My BeatVersace FW16 – Chicago Is My Beat. Film © Bruce Weber

The short film places fashion at the heart of the community, uniting empowered glamour with the spirited pulse of the metropolis where energetic routines embrace Versace’s vison with ease. Rock-chic and freestyle dancing give way to svelte gowns and languid looks as the hubbub proceeds into the night. Keith Milkie’s arresting operatic soundtrack drifts to the tune of Chicago’s past while Versace re-imagines the future.

Bruce Weber says, “The actor Robert Mitchum once told me, ‘When you first get to a new town, always make friends with a Blonde’. Well, when I got to Chicago, I found my blonde in you, Donatella. I wanted us to visit this city together because of its rich history and the spirit of love and harmony you feel in its music.

“Chicago is going through a tough time at the moment and could use a little encouragement – just like we all need every once in a while. Because the kindness of its people helped me to make these photographs, I feel like I can now call Chicago ‘my beat’.”

“Bruce Weber is the true master of our times. His photography is deeply personal and rich, a reflection of the world as he sees it. It has been my pleasure to enter once again into that world for this Versace campaign. With this new campaign, Bruce gave me my history back,” adds Donatella Versace.

 


by Miranda Charalambous

Versace FW2016 – Chicago Is My Beat. Film © Bruce Weber

LFW AW16: palmer//harding

“This season we are exploring anonymity, looking to the accelerationist and situationist movement and vaporwave for inspiration, while the anti-digital aesthetic of Nathan Peter’s art work (which we started to explore last season) continues to filter into the colours and textures of the collection,” Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding.

palmer harding asymetric black shirt

palmer//harding are one of the most dynamic duos on the current British fashion scene. The Central St Martins graduates have launched their brand in 2012 and have since gone from strength to strength gaining worldwide recognition and loyal following from the fashionistas appreciating their sharp tailoring and redefining of the classics.

Their specific reverence of the shirt, which always forms a central part of all of their collections, have earned them their “the shirt of boys” nickname and their latest AW16 collection proves once more that they continue to reign in that department.

palmer harding suede skirt blue dress

Set in the underground show space of the Mary Ward Centre, Bloomsbury, their LFW16 presentation was meant to take the viewer on the journey of self evaluation. A simplistic set formed in its entirety out of wooden pallets was a creation of Lianna Fowler studio and made for a poignant backdrop for the collection which carries a warning but also messages of hope and urging for action.

palmer hardin orange oversize coat

Building on their customary statement shirt palmer//harding duo presented a collection that is traditionally comprised of easy to wear classic with duo’s signature twist that makes each garment stand out in the crowd. Boxy silhouettes and light layering lend to the notions of anonymity and empowerment which led the designers on their latest creative journey.

Inspired by the vaporwave movement they have created a collection that is “ultimately about protecting ourselves fro the modern onslaught – and empowering individuals – by concealing our identity through layers, amour – inspired pieces and literally covering up.”

Sleek pieces created with superb craftsmanship furthermore feature cropped sleeves and trousers, cinched waists and asymmetric hems which have become synonymous with palmer//harding name. Wraparound skirts and statement flowing shirts and oversized coats complete the selection and confirm its status as timeless declaration against raging capitalism breaking societies and leaving us vulnerable and alienated.

palmer harding khaki trousers

The designer’s also reached to modern art for their colour palette and textures. Contemporary painter Nathan Peter have become their inspiration that resulted in appointing yellow, black, white, brown, dusty blue and coral for the collection’s key colours. They used cotton poplin, melange and micro cords with support from cotton – blend organdie checks and lightweight wools for their shirts and velvets mixed with more cotton in the skirts and trousers. Already diversely textured selection was furthermore enriched with patchwork pony, shearling and melton wools in the outerwear.

palmer harding black shirt patched skirt

The collection’s show styling was completed with jewellery designed in collaboration with Sian Evans and shoes provided by Duccio Venturi Bottier.

by Magda Pirowska

Images courtesy of WeAreVillage

British Fashion Council Announces Designer Showrooms Schedule for LFW AW16

The British Fashion Council has announced the designers showcasing in the Designer Showrooms – including ready-to-wear, footwear, jewellery, bags and multi-label showrooms – and the features that will be available at the Brewer Street venue.

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ROKH by Rok Hwang for AW16

Visitors to the showrooms will be able to familiarise themselves with collections from 45 designers showing for the first time. Imaginative design, the blending of various techniques and exceptional craftsmanship will be presented by the knitwear designers such as Caitlin Charles-Jones (on of  Vogue Talent’s Ones to Watch and a participant in Boden’s Future British scheme in partnership with the BFC), Yakshi Malhotra, Laura Theiss and Sabinna.

TeijaA look by Teija AW16

Further brands such as Teija, ROKH (by Rok Hwang) and designer Samuel Dougal will be showcasing their sharp, detailed tailoring while  NATALIEBCOLEMAN, Tommy Zhong and Leanne Claxton will show pieces that apply that quality with the use of their unique, tailor-made fabrics. No.288 and Ellis White will be presenting their new footwear collections.

Claire BarrowA look by Claire Barrow AW16

Displays at the Showroom will also include an installation by BFC’s talent identification scheme NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop and a pop-up showroom for this season’s NEWGEN designers: Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz, Marta Jakubowski, Molly Goddard, Ryan Lo and Sadie Williams as well as this season’s One-To-Watch Roberta Einer.

Roberta EinerLooks from Roberta Einer’s AW16 collection

BFC’s fine jewellery and millinery initiatives will be presenting the finest of accessories design from Emma Yeo, Harvy Santos, Keely Hunter and Sophie Beale – Headonism in a space co-curated by Stephen Jones OBE – Ana De Costa, Beth Gilmour, COMPLETEDWORKS, Jacqueline Cullen, Lily Kamper, Ornella Iannuzzi, Rachel Boston, Ruifier, Shimell and Madden and Yunus & Eliza – Rock Vault in a space co-curated by Stephen Webster MBE.

COMPLETEDWORKSA piece by COMPLETEDWORKS

Camilla Elphick

Shoes by Camilla Elphick AW16

Established brands returning to the showrooms this season include Camilla Elphick as well as Eudon Choi, Fleet Ilya, Fyodor Golan, Georgia Hardinge, Holly Fulton, Loxley England, Phoebe Coleman, Stephen Jones Millinery, William Chambers Millinery and Zoë Jordan.

Harvy Santos
Harvy Santos

Elsewhere Scoop London will be as usual presenting their womenswear trade show at the Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea.

NATALIEBCOLEMANNatalie B Coleman AW16

More pop-ups will be located at Brewer Street Car Park. Accredited guests will be able to visit Sunglass Hut and personalize their House of Holland LFW tote and get a customised sunglass case. The work and lounge spaces available to the visitors include: Press and Buyers Lounge by American Express x The Store, pop – up HIX Café by renowned chef Mark Hix, Maybelline New York Lounge and salon by TONI&GUY with label.m offering instant style refreshers.

by Magda Pirowska

London Fashion Week runs from February 19-23.
Concierge Amex Insiders and Swatch Timeline will be helping the visitors to navigate the space and stay up to date with all shows and schedules.
For the full pop-up schedule visit LFW website

The Changing Face of Fashion Week

  • Some looks from the Carolina Herrera Fall 2014 collection at NYFW. Image: Style.com

FASHION WEEKS are, by their very nature, exclusive events designed for fashion industry insiders, including buyers, press, and other affiliated media people, to see the latest designer collections. But, the world of digital has forever altered the concept of “media” and how we now define who is a member of the press and who is not.

For most of us, this is a good thing, as bloggers offer an individual perspective and a personalised touch to readers that seems lost to most major news media outlets. However, the organisers behind the major world fashion weeks, such as IMG in New York, have other ideas and are beginning to tighten their entry restrictions again in an effort to reinstate the “exclusive” nature of these bi-annual fashion events. While this might be a relief to some press and buyers, it seems a sad and, even, ineffectual response to the widened world of fashion, particularly since PR reps still control show entry lists and since the same organisations embraced these new media personalities just a short season or two ago.

Bloggers

Of course, the inevitable brand dilution caused by a wave of “insurgent” bloggers and upstart new media professionals has left the fashion industry somewhat in confusion. For IMG, the British Fashion Council, and other groups behind international Fashion Weeks, the impact of digital and the rise of the blogger as a media force has made it challenging to distinguish between people who need to be at a show and those who are there simply to be seen, perhaps outside of celebrity clientele who are themselves an entire class of marketing tools.

For brands, the question of who qualifies as media/press and who does not comes down to one’s definition of journalism in the first place. Even considering site reach, Twitter following and a host of social media analytics, the quality and brand appropriateness of fashion writers varies greatly, as for any other industry, which can make the job of a PR rep very hard in compiling a show guest list.

The Business of Fashion

But, brands cannot and should not ignore bloggers. They come in many varieties and should not be dismissed per se, as Renata Certo-Ware points out in a recent op-ed for The Business of Fashion entitled Don’t Write Off Fashion Bloggers. Bloggers are important partners in our age of new media journalism, for lack of a better word. But, this does not necessarily mean that over-inflated guest lists at a fashion show necessarily need to be affected. It comes down to figuring out what now defines fashion journalism and what the world needs from it, which is a value set that will differ for every brand and designer.

Since its inception, the field of journalism has been tasked with providing the public with information about the goings-on of the world. But, voice, tone and purpose have always varied and have always been affected by a host of outside influences, often political, sometimes money-driven and usually strategic, though many journalists may not believe it of their bosses. Fashion journalism is no different, though it may seem more remote to some.

Reaching consumers

The future of content, both print and online, for brands, designer, brands and buyers is, as always, a matter of you, your work, your clients or readers and your chosen form and mode of communication. Bloggers are an important part of this; but they are only one small part of it. Media outlets themselves have a huge responsibility in helping brands reach consumers and convince them of the desirability/status/uniqueness of a particular product or line. Not an easy thing for anyone to achieve but underscores the importance for brands to determine their core identity and to come up with creative ways to use this status to influence and communicate with consumers.

by Jessica Quillin