Archives for NEWGEN

The V&A Presents Fashion In Motion: Phoebe English

LUXURY BRITISH, women’s and menswear label Phoebe English will be the next designer to feature in Fashion In Motion, this October at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Fashion In Motion will highlight the precise beauty of six years of Phoebe English’s collections. Made in England, the Phoebe English, label deploys lost and rarely used garment construction and fabrication techniques, embodying the mark of the maker.

pe1Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

The fashion collections will be centred within set designs, produced to capture the imagination and involve the viewer, setting the label apart from trend led, mass-made fashion design. The collections are aimed toward a balance between design and craft. A pop up shop of selected garments, specially crafted pieces for the V&A and unique exclusive works to be sold at V&A promotional prices will feature as part of the show.

English says, “Taking part in Fashion in Motion has a particular significance to me, as the V&A was the museum in which I decided to follow my interest in fashion. It is the building where my love for clothing and design were contextualised into a tangible practice and pathway”

After debuting her first fashion collection and graduating from Central Saint Martins with an MA from their Fashion Programme, English won several awards including L’Oréal’s Professional Creative Award, the Chloe Award and the Ungaro bursary. This collection was also picked up by luxury fashion shop, Dover Street Market London.

pe3Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

In 2013, The Centre for Fashion Enterprise awarded English a mentoring and sponsorship as part of the coveted Venture Programme. And two years later, Forbes listed English in the 30 under 30, influential Art and Style category and her menswear line, Phoebe English MAN, was awarded the NEWGEN Award by the British Fashion Council.

Inspiring designers, students and researchers, the V&A  is home to some of the UK’s biggest national, fashion collections along with unique and comprehensive collections of world fashion spanning the last four centuries.

V&A fashion curator, Oriole Cullen says, “Phoebe English is a designer for whom the presentation of her work is an integral part of her design process. For each of her collections she creates intriguing and beautiful scenarios in which to showcase her designs. We are delighted to have the opportunity to work with Phoebe as part of the V&A Fashion in Motion programme, particularly as she has previously used the Museum as a source of inspiration for her collections”

pe2Phoebe English AW17 Presentation. Photograph: Polly Brown

Catwalk shows from leading, international fashion designers bring their collections to V&A Fashion In Motion, to show fashion garments moving and animated, as they should be seen. Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacriox are some of the designers previously showcased at the museum.

by Pierra George-Robertson

Featured Image: Phoebe English, Autumn Winter 17 Presentation, photo: Polly Brown.

Fashion In Motion: Phoebe English opens October 20. Tickets are available online. Admission is free.
The exhibition will be shown in the Raphael Gallery, Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London, SW7 2RL


British Fashion Council Announces Designer Showrooms Schedule for LFW AW16

The British Fashion Council has announced the designers showcasing in the Designer Showrooms – including ready-to-wear, footwear, jewellery, bags and multi-label showrooms – and the features that will be available at the Brewer Street venue.

ROKH by Rok Hwang for AW16

Visitors to the showrooms will be able to familiarise themselves with collections from 45 designers showing for the first time. Imaginative design, the blending of various techniques and exceptional craftsmanship will be presented by the knitwear designers such as Caitlin Charles-Jones (on of  Vogue Talent’s Ones to Watch and a participant in Boden’s Future British scheme in partnership with the BFC), Yakshi Malhotra, Laura Theiss and Sabinna.

TeijaA look by Teija AW16

Further brands such as Teija, ROKH (by Rok Hwang) and designer Samuel Dougal will be showcasing their sharp, detailed tailoring while  NATALIEBCOLEMAN, Tommy Zhong and Leanne Claxton will show pieces that apply that quality with the use of their unique, tailor-made fabrics. No.288 and Ellis White will be presenting their new footwear collections.

Claire BarrowA look by Claire Barrow AW16

Displays at the Showroom will also include an installation by BFC’s talent identification scheme NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop and a pop-up showroom for this season’s NEWGEN designers: Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz, Marta Jakubowski, Molly Goddard, Ryan Lo and Sadie Williams as well as this season’s One-To-Watch Roberta Einer.

Roberta EinerLooks from Roberta Einer’s AW16 collection

BFC’s fine jewellery and millinery initiatives will be presenting the finest of accessories design from Emma Yeo, Harvy Santos, Keely Hunter and Sophie Beale – Headonism in a space co-curated by Stephen Jones OBE – Ana De Costa, Beth Gilmour, COMPLETEDWORKS, Jacqueline Cullen, Lily Kamper, Ornella Iannuzzi, Rachel Boston, Ruifier, Shimell and Madden and Yunus & Eliza – Rock Vault in a space co-curated by Stephen Webster MBE.


Camilla Elphick

Shoes by Camilla Elphick AW16

Established brands returning to the showrooms this season include Camilla Elphick as well as Eudon Choi, Fleet Ilya, Fyodor Golan, Georgia Hardinge, Holly Fulton, Loxley England, Phoebe Coleman, Stephen Jones Millinery, William Chambers Millinery and Zoë Jordan.

Harvy Santos
Harvy Santos

Elsewhere Scoop London will be as usual presenting their womenswear trade show at the Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea.


More pop-ups will be located at Brewer Street Car Park. Accredited guests will be able to visit Sunglass Hut and personalize their House of Holland LFW tote and get a customised sunglass case. The work and lounge spaces available to the visitors include: Press and Buyers Lounge by American Express x The Store, pop – up HIX Café by renowned chef Mark Hix, Maybelline New York Lounge and salon by TONI&GUY with label.m offering instant style refreshers.

by Magda Pirowska

London Fashion Week runs from February 19-23.
Concierge Amex Insiders and Swatch Timeline will be helping the visitors to navigate the space and stay up to date with all shows and schedules.
For the full pop-up schedule visit LFW website

What Makes Fashion Speak?

  • Some looks from Eudon Choi SS14’s collection at London Fashion Week. Eudon Choi was a winner of the BFC Elle Talent Launch Pad in 2010, a initiative co-ordinated by Elle and the British Fashion Council

THE FRENCH post-modernist philosopher Baudrillard once wrote, “Fashion has the fabulous character of the more beautiful than beautiful; fascinating. The seduction it exerts is independent of all value judgment. It surpasses the esthetic from in the ecstatic form of unconditional metamorphosis.” Coming through the lens of postmodernism, fashion is the ultimate art form because it comes already deconstructed. Its meaning is already fading and changeable; its form is variable. But what fashion lacks in definitive form it makes up for in purpose and aesthetic impact. Fashion, in many ways, is the sheer embodiment of beauty – it is all emotion, imaginative impulse and expression. It is concomitantly objective and generalisable as it is personal and specific.

But what is it that makes fashion speak? It is up to the creative direction of an individual designer? Or is there something more substantial, universal, and transnational to the character of fashion? The answer lies both within and without the history of fashion. Coco Chanel notoriously created a fabric of stories about her own life and anecdotes in order to achieve a level of fame. But, she left her clothing to represent itself in its characteristic elegance, nonchalance, and perhaps, ridiculously, indefinable chic.

Master the balance

The power of brands lies in the degree to which they embrace their own value status. This is somewhere in the space between a company’s history and heritage and their ability to master the balance between their unique point of view and trends to stay ahead of the game with consumers. It is one of the key struggles of marketing strategy that it is a precarious balance to engage with consumers in an authentic manner, to encourage them to purchase, and not distill your brand in the process.

The poetics of fashion comes in its quasi-linguistic ability to communicate with everyone at a certain level, even those who claim to have little or no interest in it. Fashion is an art form – but, it is also a complicated business, as Imran Amed has shown us on many levels. In the same way, that a two year old can discern he prefers one pair of shoes over another, the average person participates in and interacts with fashion on a daily basis without even knowing it, both through the sheer act of getting dressed as well as emotionally engaging with how those around them choose to attire themselves.

In this way, fashion is a tricky game. Whether you’re a brand, a publication, a writer, or other related (or unrelated) industry professional, getting ahead in fashion is a matter of perseverance as well as brand value – knowing what sets you apart and finding ingenious ways to leverage upon it. This, of course, is never an easy equation, particularly in this saturated digital age where people have an access to everything and, in turn, more opinions on everything.

Emerging designers

And here is where the emerging designers come in. Free of the pressures of investors and other financial strictures, young designers are the lifeblood and the future of the fashion industry. They fully execute the poetics of fashion in the sheer individualism of their work and the artistic vision of what they create. The very movement and energy of fashion today – through all of the hype fashion weeks generate internationally – lies in the arena of these up-and-coming creative talents, known and unknown.

For all the breathlessness a Vera Wang gown or Christian Louboutin heels inspire, there is hundred-fold that for the works of these younger designers, some straight out of school, who will be designing what you will be wearing for the rest of your life, even neither of you realise it yet.

So, pay heed to those headlining young designers with the CFDA or NEWGEN in London, or that local talent in your city, because one day they may be essential to future of culture and how we understand ourselves.

by Jessica Quillin