“This season we are exploring anonymity, looking to the accelerationist and situationist movement and vaporwave for inspiration, while the anti-digital aesthetic of Nathan Peter’s art work (which we started to explore last season) continues to filter into the colours and textures of the collection,” Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding.
palmer//harding are one of the most dynamic duos on the current British fashion scene. The Central St Martins graduates have launched their brand in 2012 and have since gone from strength to strength gaining worldwide recognition and loyal following from the fashionistas appreciating their sharp tailoring and redefining of the classics.
Their specific reverence of the shirt, which always forms a central part of all of their collections, have earned them their “the shirt of boys” nickname and their latest AW16 collection proves once more that they continue to reign in that department.
Set in the underground show space of the Mary Ward Centre, Bloomsbury, their LFW16 presentation was meant to take the viewer on the journey of self evaluation. A simplistic set formed in its entirety out of wooden pallets was a creation of Lianna Fowler studio and made for a poignant backdrop for the collection which carries a warning but also messages of hope and urging for action.
Building on their customary statement shirt palmer//harding duo presented a collection that is traditionally comprised of easy to wear classic with duo’s signature twist that makes each garment stand out in the crowd. Boxy silhouettes and light layering lend to the notions of anonymity and empowerment which led the designers on their latest creative journey.
Inspired by the vaporwave movement they have created a collection that is “ultimately about protecting ourselves fro the modern onslaught – and empowering individuals – by concealing our identity through layers, amour – inspired pieces and literally covering up.”
Sleek pieces created with superb craftsmanship furthermore feature cropped sleeves and trousers, cinched waists and asymmetric hems which have become synonymous with palmer//harding name. Wraparound skirts and statement flowing shirts and oversized coats complete the selection and confirm its status as timeless declaration against raging capitalism breaking societies and leaving us vulnerable and alienated.
The designer’s also reached to modern art for their colour palette and textures. Contemporary painter Nathan Peter have become their inspiration that resulted in appointing yellow, black, white, brown, dusty blue and coral for the collection’s key colours. They used cotton poplin, melange and micro cords with support from cotton – blend organdie checks and lightweight wools for their shirts and velvets mixed with more cotton in the skirts and trousers. Already diversely textured selection was furthermore enriched with patchwork pony, shearling and melton wools in the outerwear.
The collection’s show styling was completed with jewellery designed in collaboration with Sian Evans and shoes provided by Duccio Venturi Bottier.
by Magda Pirowska
Images courtesy of WeAreVillage