Archives for Vogue

Pat McGrath Receives Isabella Blow Award at Fashion Awards

BRITISH make-up artist Pat McGrath MBE received the Isabella Blow Award at the Fashion Awards 2017 this week. The award gives recognition to the most inspirational and creative in the fashion industry and this year it celebrated the extraordinary input and artistic innovation of the revered Pat McGrath.

Pat-McGrath-fashion awardPat McGrath. Photograph: Ben Hassett

Fashion and beauty were her childhood passions, and with no formal training, McGrath has become one of the most  influential make-up artists working today. Most notable are McGrath’s contributions to runway make-up looks shown on the catwalks of London, Paris, New York and Milan, along with ongoing editorial work for many fashion brands and publications, constantly changing and challenging the norm.

The award recognised McGrath’s exceptional achievement in the launching of her brand Path McGrath Labs. Described by British Vogue as “The most influential make-up artist in the world”, the award demonstrates the continual growth and progress McGrath brings to the fashion and beauty world.

by Daisy Sewell

Atlas Gallery Reveal New Surrealist Photography Show

THE Atlas Gallery in London unleashes the creative power of the unconscious in a new show which explores how avant-garde photographers responded to Surrealism. The exhibition, which opens this week, traces the history of the iconic movement through five decades beginning with its launch in Paris in the 1920s by poet, André Breton.

The Psychic Lens: Surrealism and the camera displays almost 50 works by well-known photographers which include Man Ray, Florence Henri and Bill Brandt and work by lesser known artists such as Franz Roh and Vaclav Zykmund. Their work also reveals a diverse range of skills comprising photo-montage, double exposures, solarisation and combination printing.

Atlas Gallery, Surrealism, photography, exhibitionVisit in Night, 1951 © Toshiko Okanoue

The Surrealists sought to uncover the unconscious mind and merge it with reality. They created dream-like imagery by lifting objects from their familiar contexts and re-positioning them in unlikely groupings. The Japanese photographer, Toshiko Okanoue, started making photo collages as a fashion student at Bunk Gakim College during the 1950s. After the Second World War, Japanese goods were in short supply and many were imported from abroad.

Cutting scraps from fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, Okanoue began to create imaginative compositions arranged from body parts, animals and architectural elements. Although having no knowledge of Surrealism at the time, she realised later that, “Without being aware of it, I have planned such delicate nuances of a woman’s heart and sown seeds of such sentiments into my works.”

Atlas Gallery, Surrealism, photography, exhibitionPortrait Composition (E), 1937 by Florence Henri © Galleria Martini & Ronchetti, Genova

Influenced by Constructivism and Cubism, the American artist Florence Henri experimented with mirrors to add greater perspective to her imagery. She overlaid reflections in shop windows and made photo-montages from photographic clippings of classical architecture. She explained

“Volumes, lines, shadows and light have to obey my will and say what I want them to say. This happens under the strict control of composition, since I do not pretend to explain the world nor to explain my thoughts.”

Apart from distorting perspective and the size of objects, Surrealist photographers sometimes used words in their imagery. The German magazine cover designed by Dutch photographer, César Domela-Niewenhuis depicts a giant signpost of painted text looming above the sprawling Port of Hamburg to reveal a cluttered scene of cranes, building and steamships parts.

Atlas Gallery, Surrealism, photography, exhibitionHamburg, 1929 by César Domela-Niewenhuis © 2014 César Domela/
Artists RightsSociety (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris

by Miranda Charalambous

The exhibition, The Psychic Lens: Surrealism and the camera runs from November 24 to January 28, 2017 at Atlas Gallery, 49 Dorset Street, Marylebone, London W1U 7NF
Telephone: +44 207 224 4192
Email: info@atlasgallery.com

Front page image: Ruths-Speicher, photomontage, 1928 by César Domela-Niewenhuis © 2014 César

Domela/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/ADAGP, Paris

Vogue Italia Hosts Inaugural Photo Vogue Festival in Milan

FASHION and photography are inextricable – each one having profoundly influenced (and indeed continuing to influence) the other. Vogue Italia celebrates this unique and creatively reciprocal relationship via the Photo Vogue Festival – the first of its kind – which will be held in Milan at the end of this month. Chaired by Editor-in-Chief, Franca Sozzani, and directed by the publication’s Senior Photo Editor, Alessia Glaviano, the festival comprises a number of lectures, conferences and exhibitions which will be held at various locations throughout the city.

Highlights include the Vanessa Beecroft Portraits 1993 – 2016 exhibition, as well as two collaborative shows, The Female Gaze and Photovogue/inFashion – their common interest lying in the exploration of female identity.

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Vanessa Beecroft Portraits 1993 – 2016 exhibition © Vanessa Beecroft

Vanessa Beecroft is a LA-based multi-disciplinary artist, whose fascinating, original and rather unconventional portfolio includes performance, drawing, photography and video art to name but a few. Her work is highly didactic, and through the examination of issues such as sexuality, desire and marginalisation, Beecroft critiques widely-held perceptions of women in society.

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Photograph: Yelena Yemchuk

The Female Gaze meanwhile, brings together several artists whose works condemn the traditional role of women as muses, too often reducing them to mere passive, objectified beings.

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Photograph: Uldus Bakhtiozina

The Photovogue/inFashion exhibition showcases the industry’s most promising photographers, as selected by Vogue Italia’s Photo Vogue, an initiative launched in April 2011 which endeavours to seek out emerging talent, promote their work and foster their careers. In partnership with New York agency Art+Commerce, Photo Vogue is directed by Alessia Glaviano, and supported by Chiara Bardelli Nonino and Francesca Marani.

An expert panel of judges selected Chinese-born Kiki Xue to shoot a feature for the publication, the result of which will feature in the exhibition, alongside images produced by a further 30 recently scouted photographers.

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Photograph: Kiki Xue

by Hannah Bergin

Vanessa Beecroft Portraits 1993 – 2016 will be held from November 24-29 at Palazzo Reale: Piazza Duomo
The Female Gaze will be held from November 22 – 26 at Base Milano: Via Bergognone
Photovogue/inFashion will be held from November 22 – 26 at Base Milano: Via Bergognone

Fabryan Releases AW16 Collection at Belarus Fashion Week

LUXURY womenswear and accessories brand Fabryan launched their AW16 collection on the catwalk of Belarus Fashion Week. Created in 2010, this brand is distinguishable by striking silhouettes and statement colour, achieving a synthesis of simplicity and art inspired design. The new collection boasts ready-to-wear pieces which are elegant yet eye-catching.

FABRYAN AW16A look from the recent AW16 Fabryan collection

Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, self-taught designer, believes in indisputable quality in terms of tailoring. Hand-crafting the collection with a small team in London ensures each pieces individuality whist maintaining superlative finishing. This line is also versatile yet reliable when it comes to the brands three principles: understated elegance, innate creativity and timeless design.

FABRYAN AW16A look from the recent AW16 Fabryan collection

Strong dynamic lines paired with classic cuts offer fluidity between day and night wardrobes for the contemporary woman, along with award-winning style that has been featured in Vogue and Tatler. This brand has gone from strength to strength since its formation and by offering personalised bespoke tailoring to all customers, alongside exquisite collections, they are set to shake the London fashion scene.

by Evie Murphy

British Fashion Council Announces Designer Showrooms Schedule for LFW AW16

The British Fashion Council has announced the designers showcasing in the Designer Showrooms – including ready-to-wear, footwear, jewellery, bags and multi-label showrooms – and the features that will be available at the Brewer Street venue.

ROKH
ROKH by Rok Hwang for AW16

Visitors to the showrooms will be able to familiarise themselves with collections from 45 designers showing for the first time. Imaginative design, the blending of various techniques and exceptional craftsmanship will be presented by the knitwear designers such as Caitlin Charles-Jones (on of  Vogue Talent’s Ones to Watch and a participant in Boden’s Future British scheme in partnership with the BFC), Yakshi Malhotra, Laura Theiss and Sabinna.

TeijaA look by Teija AW16

Further brands such as Teija, ROKH (by Rok Hwang) and designer Samuel Dougal will be showcasing their sharp, detailed tailoring while  NATALIEBCOLEMAN, Tommy Zhong and Leanne Claxton will show pieces that apply that quality with the use of their unique, tailor-made fabrics. No.288 and Ellis White will be presenting their new footwear collections.

Claire BarrowA look by Claire Barrow AW16

Displays at the Showroom will also include an installation by BFC’s talent identification scheme NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop and a pop-up showroom for this season’s NEWGEN designers: Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz, Marta Jakubowski, Molly Goddard, Ryan Lo and Sadie Williams as well as this season’s One-To-Watch Roberta Einer.

Roberta EinerLooks from Roberta Einer’s AW16 collection

BFC’s fine jewellery and millinery initiatives will be presenting the finest of accessories design from Emma Yeo, Harvy Santos, Keely Hunter and Sophie Beale – Headonism in a space co-curated by Stephen Jones OBE – Ana De Costa, Beth Gilmour, COMPLETEDWORKS, Jacqueline Cullen, Lily Kamper, Ornella Iannuzzi, Rachel Boston, Ruifier, Shimell and Madden and Yunus & Eliza – Rock Vault in a space co-curated by Stephen Webster MBE.

COMPLETEDWORKSA piece by COMPLETEDWORKS

Camilla Elphick

Shoes by Camilla Elphick AW16

Established brands returning to the showrooms this season include Camilla Elphick as well as Eudon Choi, Fleet Ilya, Fyodor Golan, Georgia Hardinge, Holly Fulton, Loxley England, Phoebe Coleman, Stephen Jones Millinery, William Chambers Millinery and Zoë Jordan.

Harvy Santos
Harvy Santos

Elsewhere Scoop London will be as usual presenting their womenswear trade show at the Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea.

NATALIEBCOLEMANNatalie B Coleman AW16

More pop-ups will be located at Brewer Street Car Park. Accredited guests will be able to visit Sunglass Hut and personalize their House of Holland LFW tote and get a customised sunglass case. The work and lounge spaces available to the visitors include: Press and Buyers Lounge by American Express x The Store, pop – up HIX Café by renowned chef Mark Hix, Maybelline New York Lounge and salon by TONI&GUY with label.m offering instant style refreshers.

by Magda Pirowska

London Fashion Week runs from February 19-23.
Concierge Amex Insiders and Swatch Timeline will be helping the visitors to navigate the space and stay up to date with all shows and schedules.
For the full pop-up schedule visit LFW website

Show of Work by Illustrator and Designer Anthony Gilbert

Gilbert SS5Red-Striped Sleeves by Anthony Gilbert

COINCIDING with the upcoming London Fashion Week, a exhibition of work by the illustrator and designer Anthony Gilbert is on show at Cork Street art dealers Messum’s. Trained at Goldsmith’s College, London, Gilbert (1916-95) was hired by the London office of the advertising company of J Walter Thompson in 1943 (and worked for next 25 years), and where was responsible for many outstanding designs for companies such as Rowntree’s, Horlick’s and Rose’s Lime Juice and the mantelclock for After Eight mints which is still used on their packaging. As well as this, from the 1940s to ‘70s, Gilbert was illustrator for publications like Vogue, House and Garden, The Strand, Lilliput and Radio Times.

Gilbert SS2Lady in a blue dress ’’by Anthony Gilbert

The show at Messum’s, will centre on the dedication of his wife, Ann, (his lifelong model and muse) who encouraged Gilbert to continue creating his illustrations after he retired from J Walter Thompson. Original designs from Gilbert’s estate will be available to purchase from Messum’s.

Gilbert SS1Blue-Patterned Ladies by Anthony Gilbert

His work reflects his elegant taste, huge knowledge of design, and unique ability to marry kaleidoscopic and striking geometric patterns with the rigorous formal qualities of his work. Nowadays Gilbert is regarded as part of the tradition of great English illustrators, such as Aubrey Beardsley.

Gilbert SS4Patterned Lady by Anthony Gilbert

The painter and designer Willie Landels, later to become the first editor of Harpers & Queen, first got to know Gilbert when he worked on the Festival of Britain murals. Later he recalled how, although they worked together for many years, “Anthony was not easy to know – always immaculately dressed, the epitome of an English gentleman, he was also shy and reserved and not easily taken in conversation … but his work held so much appeal.”

Gilbert SS3Noel by Anthony Gilbert

by Caroline Simpson

The show at Messum’s runs from September 14-25 September. Tel: +44 (0)20 7437 5545
Email: info@messums.com
Opening hours: Monday – Friday: 10am – 6pm, Saturday: 10am – 4pm

Dress Up Story: Vivienne Westwood exhibition opens in Savannah

Westwood exhibSSDress Up Story – 1990 Until Now at SCAD, Savannah, Georgia.

AN EXHIBITION  of work by British designer Vivienne Westwood Dress Up Story – 1990 Until Now, has opened at the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) Museum of Art, Savannah, Georgia. The show is curated by André Leon Talley of American Vogue who is a SCAD  Trustee and a student mentor there.

Garments on display range from Dame Vivienne’s Spring/Summer ’91 collection Cut, Slash, and Pull up to present-day collections.  Dress Up Story features more than 33 garments designed in collaboration with her creative  partner and husband Andreas Kronthaler.

WestwoodSS7Garments on display at Dress Up Story – 1990 Until Now

As well as clothing, the  exhibition features accessories and fashion show footage that showcase Dame Vivienne’s innovative pattern-making, “instinctual use of fabrics and distinctive technique”. The exhibition also investigates her “masterful application of colour and features the unique fabric patterns and materials that capture both fashion culture and British history”.

Well-known as an political activist, Dame Vivienne’s work explores the issues of its time, ranging from her central role in the punk rock revolution in London and contemporary political movements such as  the anti-fracking, climate change and Occupy movements. “My clothes are more subversive than they’ve ever been,” says Dame Vivienne. “In a world of conformity, they offer a real choice.”

WestwoodSS2Embroidered jackets by Vivienne Westwood on show at Dress Up Story – 1990 Until Now

The exhibition organisers argue that her oeuvre remains a poignant representation of contemporary life, she skillfully deconstructs and arranges symbolic cultural elements into new and surprising creative designs.

Curator of the exhibition André Leon Talley took inspiration from an eccentric British celebration, describing the exhibition as “A post modern romp of a weekend party where the swells meet the activists, where the rogues go vogue, and the vogues go rogue.”

SCAD is based in Savannah and Atlanta, Georgia, Hong Kong and in Lacoste, France. It’s courses can be accessed online through SCAD eLearning, the diverse student body consists of nearly 12,000 students from across the United States and more than 100 countries.

WestwoodSS3More looks at Dress Up Story – 1990 Until Now

Selections from the SCAD Museum of Ar’’s Earle W Newton collection of British and American paintings, hung salon style, create a backdrop for the garments.  Dame Vivienne said, “Our costumes are romantic and theatrical, inspired by history. We know the characters they belong to. Whoever chooses to wear them re-creates the clothes in her own image making them classics. She inhabits a parallel world – like this one but more ideal. Andreas and I have been designing for 25 years, living and working together. It’s our story. We always dress up.”

“The SCAD Museum of Art continues to deliver innovative and dynamic art experiences that inspire students and visitors of all ages,” said SCAD President and Founder Paula Wallace. “SCAD is honoured to celebrate Dame Vivienne’s illustrious work.”

WestwoodSS6Installation view of Dress Up Story – 1990 Until Now

The exhibition offers a insight into the creative process of one of fashion’s most provocative minds, offering a cross-section of Westwood’s history and major fashion accomplishments from the last 25 years.

Daily admission to the exhibition is free for all SCAD students, faculty, staff and museum members. The exhibition is open to the public with the cost of museum admission.

by Caroline Simpson

All images courtesy of SCAD

SCAD Museum of Art, 
601 Turner Blvd. 
Savannah, Georgia
The exhibition runs until September 13, 2015. For ticket information, please go here
A reception for Vivienne Westwood Exhibition: Dress Up Story – 1990 Until Now will be held on July 9, 5:30-7 p.m.